Zippers Thundermax Auto Tune

[supertechal]

Originally Posted by UltraKla$$ic

Guys, I have a dilemma I need some input please

I have Hogpro 18" wheels on my '07 Ultra and I'm wondering which Speedo Calibration I should use.

Any input?

hello,if the overall tire size is the same go with the stock setting.you probably are still running the same overall tire size as stock .the only thing that has changed is the wheel size. if you have the old wheels and tires take a measurement to be sure.

[UltraKla$$ic]

Originally Posted by supertechal

hello,if the overall tire size is the same go with the stock setting.you probably are still running the same overall tire size as stock .the only thing that has changed is the wheel size. if you have the old wheels and tires take a measurement to be sure.

Thanks, I was thinking the same way you replied but wasn't positive in my reasoning as the circumference between the stock 16" and 18" w/low profile tires is virtually the same. Just wasn't sure if it would actually work as Zippers had no answer for me on this scenario.

Many thanks.

Lastly, after reading this WHOLE thread, I'm getting cold feet. Thing is I already bought the TMax. I currently have a SERT and my bike runs fine. I just bought the TMax to play with and see what it had to offer, but the last few pages of this thread have some "old-timers" that have had the TMax w/Autotune for awhile and are still unhappy with it.

Is it because of impatience? I certainly do not want to create a plethora of issues with my bike. I want to plug and play as I thought the Tmax would offer.

What to do?!?!?

Gulp!......help

[HARLEYMANIAC]

Hi Tmax enthusiasts,

I was trying to copy parts from one map to another map but had no luck
i had 2 maps open on my Laptop then use shift ctrl C on this map
and used shift ctrl V on the other map but an error shows up saying
that there is no data on the clipboard.

is it possible to copy data between maps ?
or can you have 2 times the thunderlink software runing ?

Fred

[NavyCPO]

Ultrakla$$ic,
I bought an 06 StreetGlide and did the stage 1 upgrade right away. The bike ran so poorly I thought about selling it. I put 6500 miles on it (never satisfied with the performance) and then this spring decided to go with the T-Max. I had it installed and have not messed with any of the settings since. The thing is absolutly the best add on I have put on either my 06 StreetGlide or 04 Fatboy. The bike runs so smooth and much more powerful, I love it. Just got back from a 3200 mile trip from sea level up to 6000 ft and the thing just plain worked. Over 4000 miles on the T-Max now and I can not think of one complaint or issue. Put it on, my guess is you will never go back to the sert.

[UltraKla$$ic]

Originally Posted by NavyCPO

Ultrakla$$ic,
I bought an 06 StreetGlide and did the stage 1 upgrade right away. The bike ran so poorly I thought about selling it. I put 6500 miles on it (never satisfied with the performance) and then this spring decided to go with the T-Max. I had it installed and have not messed with any of the settings since. The thing is absolutly the best add on I have put on either my 06 StreetGlide or 04 Fatboy. The bike runs so smooth and much more powerful, I love it. Just got back from a 3200 mile trip from sea level up to 6000 ft and the thing just plain worked. Over 4000 miles on the T-Max now and I can not think of one complaint or issue. Put it on, my guess is you will never go back to the sert.

That is EXACTLY my expectations and desire.

Thank you for sharing this NavyCPO!

[supertechal]

Originally Posted by UltraKla$$ic

That is EXACTLY my expectations and desire.

Thank you for sharing this NavyCPO!

i couldn't have said it any better!

[fx4]

Originally Posted by x52gnr

I loaded this map and just got back from a 1200 mile 4 day trip to Americade...The bike ran ok but it ran on the hot side. My oil temp guage ran about 220-230 depending on speed and that was even during relatively cool outdoor temps 70 degrees...If I sat in traffic for even a short time it would climb quick past 230-240 and the engine light would come on, so I would pull over to cool it off...Did I load something wrong? With map 385 it didnt run as hot and never overheated...I am confused..

Stock 07 Ultra with no mods other than se aircleaner

I have been trying to post to you for several days but had to wait for moderator approval. I had the same problem and my dealer ended up sending the unit to Zippers. Bottom line is that the thing is not autotunning. In my case the 02 sensors were fried. The dealer wanted to know why and apparently so did Zippers because they had the unit for 2.5 months. They just sent the unit back so I'm waiting to find out the results of the bench testing. I'll post when I have a good answer.

[Warhawk]

I've been watching your progress with this. I have a 2 week old 2007 FLHTC and am planning to add the TMAT when I'm ready to upgrade the intake and exhaust. I'm a long distance rider so the mpg's are important to me, well actually range is what's important but good mpg's is where we get the nice range from.

Thanks for keeping us updated ... Jim

Originally Posted by jschmuck

My whine is down by at least half. I agree that part of it is caused by engine tuning. If the timing is too advanced is it possible that more driveline pulsing is created by the partial preignition? The whine is not loud enough now to be a real concern to me and unless passing or trying to accelerate up a hill I no longer use 5th gear. My bike will slowly pull away at speeds of 55mph in 6th with no shuddering. Attached is my map for those interested. Version 2 timing was too advanced for hot weather - 2300ft elevation - 50/50 premium/regular gas. Many curves were tried untill I could start to feel the sweet points. A degree of timing is a big big number I have found. I find that timing needs to be addressed first and that mixtures are a lot more forgiving. My curve also reduces the start up clunk. This map gave 39mpg US on a 120 mile run with 7 stops. It had some 75mph speeds, gravel roads, and city miles as part of the trip. Had to increase accel fuel from 10 to 12. I have just started to mess with it so don't know if that is the ideal number, but it improved slow pull away. My main interest is improving driveablility.

[jschmuck]

Originally Posted by supertechal

hello i just looked at your map and want to know why you have the timing that far retarted.i can't imagine the bike making any power only because i tried retarding mine 2 degrees from idle to 3000 rpms and it was like a fish out of water no balls what so ever.as far as the fuel curves they alittle rich except for the cruising ranges for a stock engine bike,but hey i guess whatever works for ya.

I wish we could see the base timing map in actual degrees. I should log a run to get the info. My reasoning is that above 2000 rpm you can shoot for HP and in my case 2 degrees is what I need to stop hot day pinging. Below 2000 rpm you can't get any major HP anyway. If I am leaving a traffic light I pass through that part of the curve in a flash and would never enter it again till up to speed.

You can't generate HP at 880 RPM, but you can get some decent torque. If you take an 800lb bike and add two people plus luggage,fuel, etc you have 1300 lbs to get moving. I can bring up my revs and slip - burn my clutch as well as any one but this does not appeal to me. With a stock setup when you let out the clutch with no extra trottle your revs dip. I don't know how quick the electronics can readjust the timing, throttle position, fuel etc but it does not seem fast enough. If your rpm dips momentarily to say 500 rpm you become heavily advanced with some preignition thrown in to ensure a hard stall. With 96 cubic inches this should not be the case.

Retarding idle timing way more than it should be causes the engine to run at less effiecency that optimum timing for that rpm. This means that a larger fuel/air charge must be present in the cylinder to maintain idle speed. When you release the clutch and the speed dips you now have the ideal timing and and precharged fuel/air producing much more torque than would other wise be possible. Stress on bearings should be less when the expansion takes place at after TDC then in a predetination condition. You will hear that 48" thud nice and steady as you roll away and idle through that parking lot without lurching and slaping your driveline all to hell or having constantly engage and release the clutch.

The fuel mixtures are another story - I agree that they are too rich - So the testing goes on.

Sure wish the advanced software was available.

Thanks to all for your help and comments either directly or indirectly

[supertechal]

Originally Posted by jschmuck

I wish we could see the base timing map in actual degrees. I should log a run to get the info. My reasoning is that above 2000 rpm you can shoot for HP and in my case 2 degrees is what I need to stop hot day pinging. Below 2000 rpm you can't get any major HP anyway. If I am leaving a traffic light I pass through that part of the curve in a flash and would never enter it again till up to speed.

You can't generate HP at 880 RPM, but you can get some decent torque. If you take an 800lb bike and add two people plus luggage,fuel, etc you have 1300 lbs to get moving. I can bring up my revs and slip - burn my clutch as well as any one but this does not appeal to me. With a stock setup when you let out the clutch with no extra trottle your revs dip. I don't know how quick the electronics can readjust the timing, throttle position, fuel etc but it does not seem fast enough. If your rpm dips momentarily to say 500 rpm you become heavily advanced with some preignition thrown in to ensure a hard stall. With 96 cubic inches this should not be the case.

Retarding idle timing way more than it should be causes the engine to run at less effiecency that optimum timing for that rpm. This means that a larger fuel/air charge must be present in the cylinder to maintain idle speed. When you release the clutch and the speed dips you now have the ideal timing and and precharged fuel/air producing much more torque than would other wise be possible. Stress on bearings should be less when the expansion takes place at after TDC then in a predetination condition. You will hear that 48" thud nice and steady as you roll away and idle through that parking lot without lurching and slaping your driveline all to hell or having constantly engage and release the clutch.

The fuel mixtures are another story - I agree that they are too rich - So the testing goes on.

Sure wish the advanced software was available.

Thanks to all for your help and comments either directly or indirectly

hello i am a automotive master tech by trade so i do understand your theory of why you have made those changes to the timing after you explained it that way.it makes sense,and as long as it is working for you then that is even better.i too really wish we could see the advance software.i think i could adjust it as needed without messing my engine up because i know alot about efi in general.anyway good luck with the tuning of the afr's and keep us posted.

[Eddie Haskell]

I have a question; why is it I can ride 2 up all day long and the engine doesn't seem to get overly hot but when my wife gets off and I ride alone I can feel a definite rise in the temps? I would think it would be just the opposite.
This is not a complaint but a question, the bike is running the best it ever has and I'm averaging 40 something MPG's and I'm fine with that!

[pfd161]

Here is one thing I am encountering....when I go to down shift I occasionally give it a little gas..ie...pull in clutch, give it some gas as shifting, let out clutch. I very often get a cough when I try to give it gas...mostly when shifting out of fifth...

It doesn't get better desite putting hundreds of miles on this map. Also, it will go without decel popping for a while and then out of nowhere it will decel pop...

Understand the bike still rides way better with this and I do like it very much. Just thinking those issues should be getting better with the autotune?

Thanks for any help you can provide.
Dennis

[HARLEYMANIAC]

@pfd161,

I had this too and i lowered the 'accel fuel' after that the
poping ist gone

Fred

[x52gnr]

Originally Posted by fx4

I have been trying to post to you for several days but had to wait for moderator approval. I had the same problem and my dealer ended up sending the unit to Zippers. Bottom line is that the thing is not autotunning. In my case the 02 sensors were fried. The dealer wanted to know why and apparently so did Zippers because they had the unit for 2.5 months. They just sent the unit back so I'm waiting to find out the results of the bench testing. I'll post when I have a good answer.

Mine is autotuning as i can monitor it and see it making changes...I believe it has to do with the timing curve as I have reloaded the map I had previous and it runs great and much cooler now......

[supertechal]

Originally Posted by Eddie Haskell

I have a question; why is it I can ride 2 up all day long and the engine doesn't seem to get overly hot but when my wife gets off and I ride alone I can feel a definite rise in the temps? I would think it would be just the opposite.
This is not a complaint but a question, the bike is running the best it ever has and I'm averaging 40 something MPG's and I'm fine with that!

hello,i think that when you have the wife riding you are not running the bike as hard as when you are by yourself.i know that when i ride with my girl on the back i am alot more tame with the throttle than when i am by myself.also when you ride with your wife are you traveling out on the open road alot more than when you are by yourself?