Daytona Twin-Tech TCFI tuning

[wkohn]

Originally Posted by REED

for your IAT code it means that the sensor is either burnt out or has come unplugged, check for the latter ande dont forget the IAT sensor has a plug at the sensor and a second one behind the battery on a dyna and in battery area on a softail (this plug comes undone easily) the cyl sync lost happens on my system when the bike backfires and that sometimes will throw the ckp code. Get the IAT code corrected and the other two will probably not show anymore. Your IAT sensor is telling the twintech the air temp is way out of range and the system cannot compensate for that.

I sprayed some Gumout on the sensor and then reset the codes. Has been running find ever since. Had an oil build up on it.

[FLSTCI124"]

Haven't even bothered checking my TCFI IID over the past few weeks as I've been busy / disgusted trying to figure out strange noises in my bottom end that materialized for no apparent reason. So tonight I decided to check the history and this was what popped up:

P0373 CKP Signal Lost Trips: 3
P0374 Cylinder ID Fault Trips: 1
P0123 Idle TPS High Trips: 29
P0505 IAC Low Trips: 39
P0505 IAC High Trips: 49
P0374 Cylinder Sync Lost Trips: 47

Ridiculous!

Kick back on start-up is about daily occurance. If the turn signals don't self cancel, that means the VSS isn't working either. Somehow they are tied in together.

If I shut my motor off and restart ( I usually speed up to 45mph then pull in clutch, close throttle, turn off "OFF/RUN" switch, count to 7, turn switch to "RUN", wait 7 seconds then let out the clutch.

Engine will fire right up, check engine light will come on for 2-3 seconds and then turn signals / VSS will start working correctly.

I'm going to try (again) to change the the ignition to fire on the 2nd revolution and see if that will help any...

Never ends.

[jasilva]

Originally Posted by FLSTCI124"

Haven't even bothered checking my TCFI IID over the past few weeks as I've been busy / disgusted trying to figure out strange noises in my bottom end that materialized for no apparent reason. So tonight I decided to check the history and this was what popped up:

P0373 CKP Signal Lost Trips: 3
P0374 Cylinder ID Fault Trips: 1
P0123 Idle TPS High Trips: 29
P0505 IAC Low Trips: 39
P0505 IAC High Trips: 49
P0374 Cylinder Sync Lost Trips: 47

Ridiculous!

Kick back on start-up is about daily occurance. If the turn signals don't self cancel, that means the VSS is working either. Somehow they are tied in together.

If I shut my motor off and restart ( I usually speed up to 45mph then pull in clutch, close throttle, turn off "OFF/RUN" switch, count to 7, turn switch to "RUN", wait 7 seconds then let out the clutch.

Engine will fire right up, check engine light will come on for 2-3 seconds and then turn signals / VSS will start working correctly.

I'm going to try (again) to change the the ignition to fire on the 2nd revolution and see if that will help any...

Never ends.

I'd search out an ECM and have it flashed to work with your bike, get a race tuner and give Doc a call. You will never get that piece of shiit TCFI to work correctly. I went thru the same stuff with the same codes and kick back on start up till I got a race tuner and a good tune. After that the damn bike started first try every time just like a stock bike.

[FLSTCI124"]

I hear you! Just waiting on the funds & I'm there... I've given up on any DTT product and the lack of support...

Be joining you shortly!

Perhaps I will be trailering down to see Doc for a SERT tune. See the true potential of my motor with the new cam.

[jasilva]

Cool, you'll be much happier. Sorry if I keep but DTT really pisses me off. That a$$ that designed the TCFI came around here for a while talking up his product and every claim he made is bull$hit

[FLSTCI124"]

Originally Posted by jasilva

I'd search out an ECM and have it flashed to work with your bike, get a race tuner and give Doc a call. You will never get that piece of shiit TCFI to work correctly. I went thru the same stuff with the same codes and kick back on start up till I got a race tuner and a good tune. After that the damn bike started first try every time just like a stock bike.

So I can get a used ECM for an 01 softail and it'll work on my bike once it's flashed?

Only the stealership can flash them?

[jasilva]

Originally Posted by FLSTCI124"

So I can get a used ECM for an 01 softail and it'll work on my bike once it's flashed?

Only the stealership can flash them?

As long as it's from the same year and model you should be fine. My bike didn't even have the vin in it from the factory and it worked. I had to have the vin flashed to it before I could SERT tune it though. So I bet you could get it flashed and the bike would be happy.



Joe

[REED]

i THINK YOU ARE WASTING YOUR TIME, I think that the twintech gives the ultimate in adjustments for any engine combo also if you read the info on the twintech site I think you willo agree that they warn that their system is not for amateurs and not to expect to be able to just fire it up and go riding right away, it takes time to get things set up ande working right. I followed the advise of some on this thread and disabled blm correction at 0 % throttle, wrong, as well as a few other items. my 131 didn't start to run right till \I enabled afr correction at 0% then before starting gave the wego about 4 minutes to warm up before starting and let it do its own thing, after a few apply blms it was starting and running good, I aqn still playing with the thing and tweaking a little here and there, only 1 change at a time so that I can feel the results and things are really comming into line and it is doing just fine. I didn;t give up on myself and go to something else, one can't expect miracles overnight as this whole system is a learning process for me. I HAVE A 131 INCH ENGINE PUTTING OUT i ESTIMATE OVER 150 HP but won't know for sure till I put it on the dyno and that maay not be till next summer. I can tell you that turning the engine off while doing 59 mph anad then restarting while moving is definitely not the way to let it learn how to idle and run properly. To start my bike wouldnt idle one had to crack the throttle to get it to start which also isnt the way to let it learn, a little thought and I realized the IAC wasn't giving it enough air so reset everything to base and turn the idle screw in until it starts and stays running my base perameters call nominal IAC at 30 and I set my est HP at 170 then let the wego waRM UP run that a few times and apply blms and you will start to get into the ball p,ark. I am leaqrning myself but if I can help in any waqy just ask, tom reedth@telus,net and put twintech in the subject line, I drive for a living so only able to get on the computer on weekends.

[jasilva]

Hey Reed,



Over a thousand posts and hundreds of posters and people still can't get it to run correctly. Sorry you can say whatever you'd like about it not being for amateurs, but that's just DTT bullshiit to cover the fact that the system is not up to the task. Several of the people struggling with this system are known engine builders with plenty of experience. A truly useful and well designed product would have nothing but praise reports in the posts NOT 1000+ posts about problems. I would be willing to bet that an identical build to yours with a SERT tune or PCIII tune would produce better power with fewer starting problems.

[FLSTCI124"]

Originally Posted by REED

" if you read the info on the twintech site I think you willo agree that they warn that their system is not for amateurs and not to expect to be able to just fire it up and go riding right away, it takes time

I did not buy the DTT system with the intention of being an expert. I bought it because the clowns that built my motor told me it was the "Silver Bullet" cure to the problems I've been plagued with since having my motor built by the circus...

Since the build, I've had all the starting issues that alot of people have posted on this forum. I'm not here to stir the pot, I just want a bike that starts reliably and runs like it's supposed to.

I don't make a million $$$ a year & after $12K in the motor I'm tired of throwing my money down the drain on something I can't go back on.

Over 4 years messing with the DTT, and not just me, others way more knowledgable than I have played with my maps and offered advice.

I have ALL the upgrades recommended by S&S AND DTT. Top of the line stuff, I don't skimp on anything.

I've got an almost $500 2.0 Kw starter sitting on my work bench that draws too much amps, but it was one of the recommendations that didn't work either...

[DKM]

Originally Posted by FLSTCI124"

I did not buy the DTT system with the intention of being an expert...I'm not here to stir the pot, I just want a bike that starts reliably and runs like it's supposed to...

Ditto...

Self-Tuning my A$$.
I can't believe I bought into this snake-oil product.

Been lurking on this forum for a while and learning as much as I can. I really just wanted to get it initially setup and then let it "self-tune" so I could ride and not worry about it.

I'm so sick of the pinging I can't get worked out
; the erratic idle that makes no sense; the kickback on startup; the occasional backfire and loss of power on takeoff (which has caused me some serious pucker when making a turn); and the list goes on
.
.
.
and on
.
.
.
and on.

Luckily, I still have my PC so that goes back on today--temporaily. Next will definetly be a SERT or the MasterTune product.

Best of luck friends.

[FLSTCI124"]

DKM,

You just reinforced the same problems I've been having for the past 4 years.

Everyone on here that goes from a TCFI IID to a SERT says they have no more problems...

[wkohn]

For some reason I can no longer change my AFR beyond 14.1. Is there something I clicked on that I can click off so that I can change it?

[SpeedGlide]

Originally Posted by wkohn

For some reason I can no longer change my AFR beyond 14.1. Is there something I clicked on that I can click off so that I can change it?

Me neither. I just assumed it was a programed limit. Not that I'd want to go much higher, but I'm curious to see a response to your question...
Jason

[wkohn]

Originally Posted by SpeedGlide

Me neither. I just assumed it was a programed limit. Not that I'd want to go much higher, but I'm curious to see a response to your question...
Jason

Jason,

I used to be able to change mine and would have it as high as 14.6 in the winter so that the bike would warm up when riding in 30 degree temps.

Now I'm stuck at 14.1

Makes it hard to get the bike to warm up.

Bill