Daytona Twin-Tech TCFI tuning

[Dogwood]

Originally Posted by cts1950

I adjusted mine by trial add error. I think the higher the number the lower the speedo reads. I used my gps for my gauge.

Using the GPS to calibrate the speedometer is the greatest thing I have learned here on V-Twin forums.
Thank you cts1950, if ever you find yourself in Fort Worth Texas, I'll buy you a Steak, and I mean at a good steak restaurant, not Golden Coral.

Originally Posted by wkohn

I memory serves me correctly. I had to lower the number to lower the MPH reading and raise it to raise the MPH reading.

wkohn is correct though, the lower the frequency number, the lower the speedo will display.

For my bike, stock wheels, Michelin Commanders MU85, stock final drive pulleys, and a Baker DD6 I came up with 1153HZ.

[cts1950]

Well fuzzy memory caught me on which way to adjust the frequency I worked it out about 4 years ago and slept a few times since then.

[AirGlider]

Curtis,

I understand what the trigger does but I am having a hard time understanding why to use it instead of just setting the timing and afr's to non pinging values in the power ranges. Granted it is easier to retard the range 4 degrees but would it not be better to find out where the ping occurs and back off a couple degrees there?

I understand it will be much more labor intensive the way I am suggesting and you would have to run something like the Palm. What are your thoughts?

AG

[Curtis Shipp]

Originally Posted by AirGlider

Curtis,

I understand what the trigger does but I am having a hard time understanding why to use it instead of just setting the timing and afr's to non pinging values in the power ranges. Granted it is easier to retard the range 4 degrees but would it not be better to find out where the ping occurs and back off a couple degrees there?

I understand it will be much more labor intensive the way I am suggesting and you would have to run something like the Palm. What are your thoughts?

AG

I have my timing set high to give good mileage in 6th gear 2600 rpm at 70 mph on the highway. The map is around 12" with a tps of 20-25% tps and 34 degrees timing. If I roll on throttle to pass or go up a steep hill it will ping. By killing the timing with the nitrous trigger I can keep the ping out and still have my high timing. If I try it with timing curve only I loose the light throttle cruise timing. If my bike had the 5 speed trans I would not have this problem as bad because I would be at 3000 rpm at 70 mph. I am trying to get 45 mpg at 70 mph on a 07' Ultra.

PS: I tried the palm and it is only good to get you killed. We have enough problems when we keep our eyes on the road watching for other drivers. If you are looking at a palm and trying to read and write something you will not catch yourself running off the road or see the car or truck pulling out on you. Do not use the palm!!! Use the log.

[niget2002]

Originally Posted by Curtis Shipp

<snipped>
PS: I tried the palm and it is only good to get you killed. We have enough problems when we keep our eyes on the road watching for other drivers. If you are looking at a palm and trying to read and write something you will not catch yourself running off the road or see the car or truck pulling out on you. Do not use the palm!!! Use the log.

I disagree. I think it has a lot to do with where you're using it though. I mostly used it around my parent's neighborhood and up and down lesser travelled side streets and back roads.

I can see where if you're trying to use it here in Dallas where I live, you'd end up pretty hurt.

I did use it a few times on rides in to work the first winter I had it. When something happens in the first 4 minutes of a 15 minute ride, the log wouldn't go back far enough for me to see it.

When you're using to check for pings, you shouldn't need to look at it any longer than it would to check your speedo and tach.

[ktwillys]

DTT III.......... 60 mins of log time.....

[Curtis Shipp]

Originally Posted by niget2002

I disagree. I think it has a lot to do with where you're using it though. I mostly used it around my parent's neighborhood and up and down lesser travelled side streets and back roads.

I can see where if you're trying to use it here in Dallas where I live, you'd end up pretty hurt.

I did use it a few times on rides in to work the first winter I had it. When something happens in the first 4 minutes of a 15 minute ride, the log wouldn't go back far enough for me to see it.

When you're using to check for pings, you shouldn't need to look at it any longer than it would to check your speedo and tach.

Lap top computer in bag on bike. Ride hiway. Stop at station and read log. Make change and drink (Mt Dew). Lap top back in bag. Ride more. This is how I make adjustments in trouble spots. I keep the side cover off while I do this so I can plug in quick. Only need 5 mins of log.

[AirGlider]

Curtis,

I was able to reroute my data cable connection to exit toward the right frame rail and below the gusset plate. I take out the sealing plug and connect my data cable. Saves having to remove side panel and saddlebag each time.

AG

[FLSTCI124"]

Finally ordered and received my RB-Racing 2-1 Pro Stock pipes! Despite all the horror stories it tool about 30 days total from ordering to receipt.

Well packaged and awesome craftsmanship...

Bungs for the O2 sensors installed of course. Just wondering if there are any adjustments I should make to the DTT IID prior to firing her up?

[SpeedGlide]

Ok experts...
I have the DTT running awesome, my BLMs are tuned in, pinging tuned out, the bike runs awesome!!
However, I do have a code.. A few times a week, my blinkers will flash 6 times when I turn the ignition on. And I have this code stored in my log... PO373CKP signal lost..
WTF?
I can only assume it's something insignificant, the bike runs great!
Jason

[FLSTCI124"]

Speedglide,

I have that same codes and a few others that are present every time I download but the bike has been running fine.

From time to time, when I take off riding and use the turn signals they will not self cancel.

It the turn signals don't self cancel, I know the the VSS isn't recording either but my speedo is working fine.

If I shut the bike off for about 10 seconds and re-start, the turn signals will work and so does the VSS.

Really weird but I have no clue how to fix it.

I have come to the conclusion that if she's running good, leave it alone...

[cts1950]

I recall reading that the crank position lost is a normal code if you should stall your engine. IE the engine stops running with the ignition on = no crank signal. I get this all the time my self. Also if I stall the engine and do a compression start or a instant restart it seems the engine will be out of sync with the computer and run ratty possibly on one cylinder until I shut it down and cycle the ignition and wait for all the lights to cycle before starting to clear up the problem.

[FLSTCI124"]

My 124 has thrown codes since the begining. I get CKP losts, cylinders out of sync, etc, etc daily.

I've went through expensive starters, Hi-amp batteries, tore it apart and made sure the timing marks were aligned properly, had Curtis looks at the maps numerous times and he was kind enough to make adjustments and go back & forth.

Nothing seems to make a difference. I've considered going to a SERT but I've too much money invested in the DTT. I could never get even close to what I paid for this system off Ebay or wherever.

I got the DTT in 2004 or so and paid out the butt because the shop that built my motor initially said that was the magic bullet.

I should of researched allot more before I dove into the build and went with one of the real pro's like I've discovered since finding V-Twin forum.

Hind-site is a wonderful thing....

Mines running pretty dang good so I'll leave it at that regardless of the codes.

[SpeedGlide]

Thanks for the help guys. The 6 flashes or the 373 signal could very well be due to a stall. I will keep a close eye on the two and see if there's a connection...
Do we have a link to the codes and what they may mean anywere??
Jason

[tpierce67]

Hey guys, I'm new to the DTT. I just installed the TCFI 3 on my 07 Street Bob. All in all things seems to be coming along nicely. I've applied BLM's about 3 times. I have severe decel popping when I wind up the RPM's and let off the throttle. I don't have a tach so I can't really tell where it happens but It is as the RPM's are coming down.

I also have pinging when rolling on the throttle and when up in the RPM range in 5th or 6th gear. I've searched this entire thread and read most of it too but most of the talk is about the TCFT2. My Dyna is stock except for Slip-ons and SE AC.
If I could get some help it would greatly appreciated.

Thanks.