Daytona Twin-Tech TCFI tuning

[Curtis Shipp]

Originally Posted by tpierce67

Hey guys, I'm new to the DTT. I just installed the TCFI 3 on my 07 Street Bob. All in all things seems to be coming along nicely. I've applied BLM's about 3 times. I have severe decel popping when I wind up the RPM's and let off the throttle. I don't have a tach so I can't really tell where it happens but It is as the RPM's are coming down.

I also have pinging when rolling on the throttle and when up in the RPM range in 5th or 6th gear. I've searched this entire thread and read most of it too but most of the talk is about the TCFT2. My Dyna is stock except for Slip-ons and SE AC.
If I could get some help it would greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

I will send you a map that should get you very close.

[tpierce67]

Thanks Curtis. The help is much appreciated. I can send you my map if you want to take a look at it.

[cts1950]

I had some bad luck recently. I have the dtt set to allow 1 rev before starting and I had it kick back hard enough to halt the starter abruptly. I had to use the compression releases to get started. It happened again several days later I got more careful about the releases. Well my clutch started slipping over the weekend so I took the side cover off to check it out and found the clutch assembly had a noticeable wobble to it. The long and the short of it the main shaft on the SE 6 speed has a .010 bend in the last 3 inches where the clutch slips on to the spline. That was a 320 dollar mistake just for the shaft. I am wondering about backing off the timing way off at the cells below 1000 would stop this problem from recurring.

[Curtis Shipp]

Originally Posted by cts1950

I had some bad luck recently. I have the dtt set to allow 1 rev before starting and I had it kick back hard enough to halt the starter abruptly. I had to use the compression releases to get started. It happened again several days later I got more careful about the releases. Well my clutch started slipping over the weekend so I took the side cover off to check it out and found the clutch assembly had a noticeable wobble to it. The long and the short of it the main shaft on the SE 6 speed has a .010 bend in the last 3 inches where the clutch slips on to the spline. That was a 320 dollar mistake just for the shaft. I am wondering about backing off the timing way off at the cells below 1000 would stop this problem from recurring.

I set my timing 10 at 500, 14 at 750, 17 at 1000 - 0 tps, no kick back problem.

[cts1950]

when looking at the advance curve table it shows rpm and hg cells the cells on the top have the most advance which by memory start at 16 hg I am assuming that is = to 0 tps

[FLSTCI124"]

Changed over to the RB 2-1 pipes and ever since then I have a weird thing happening. When I pull up to a stop light my initial RPM will be 1100-1300, but once I come to a complete stop it lowers to 900-1000 surging back & forth.

Still getting kick-back and the motor actually locks up when I initially hit the start button. It will start to turn over and then stops? After a few more press & releases of the button it will spin over quickly and fire up. Next time I pull the heads I'm adding mechanical releases along with the S&S electronic releases I'm currently running.

Also played with the Asynchronous fuel gain but that seems to have little effect on the idle problem.

Is there a way to set your default ET to 200 on the Log? Mine always runs at 160deg which of course is off the chart.

My pipes (without heat shields installed are golden brown from the cylinders to about 8-10 inches down the pipe. Which I remember reading was a good sign. (?)

I've applied / reset BLMs numerous times with no noticeable effect.

Buying a new TPS today as the current one has quite a few miles on it...

[Curtis Shipp]

Originally Posted by cts1950

when looking at the advance curve table it shows rpm and hg cells the cells on the top have the most advance which by memory start at 16 hg I am assuming that is = to 0 tps

You are right. Some times I type faster then I think.

[cts1950]

Still getting kick-back and the motor actually locks up when I initially hit the start button. It will start to turn over and then stops? After a few more press & releases of the button it will spin over quickly and fire up. Next time I pull the heads I'm adding mechanical releases along with the S&S electronic releases I'm currently running.

I had that problem with 103 build and ended up with a bent main shaft on my transmission. You might check the run out on your clutch basket that is how I discovered my bent shaft.

[sdbryant]

Originally Posted by Curtis Shipp

Try this. I leaned your afr 3%. Do not apply blm's let them work and pull fuel off. I worked on your timing some. I pulled some fuel off in your frt cyl trim. Your fuel mileage should get better. The decel pop you will have to let me know.

Curtis,
I have tried the map you adjusted. I am getting quite a bit of decel pop. Some pinging when rolling on the throttle in all gears when solo and much more when two up. Here is the log and map. As always I appreciate the help.
SDB

[nw_guy4_fun]

I have what I consider darn near a perfect tune and the bike runs well. 07 107" with R&R heads and HQ cams.
Two bad annoyances
The speedo is 12.5% fast (GPS). I have changed the front pulley to 30t and don't know to raise the frequency number by that amount or lower????
After a hot restart, like gas the bike hangs at a very high idle between 1500 and 2000. The only way for me to clear this is to come to a full stop and wait in neutral. It will then back down and behave from there on out. It does this every time though consistently until I go through this routine.

Any help is much appreciated
TIA

[wkohn]

Originally Posted by nw_guy4_fun

I have what I consider darn near a perfect tune and the bike runs well. 07 107" with R&R heads and HQ cams.
Two bad annoyances
The speedo is 12.5% fast (GPS). I have changed the front pulley to 30t and don't know to raise the frequency number by that amount or lower????
After a hot restart, like gas the bike hangs at a very high idle between 1500 and 2000. The only way for me to clear this is to come to a full stop and wait in neutral. It will then back down and behave from there on out. It does this every time though consistently until I go through this routine.

Any help is much appreciated
TIA

There is a formula for changing the VSS in the manual. Use that. It works really well. I have mine within a half MPH.

[Dogwood]

Originally Posted by nw_guy4_fun

Two bad annoyances
The speedo is 12.5% fast (GPS). I have changed the front pulley to 30t and don't know to raise the frequency number by that amount or lower????
After a hot restart, like gas the bike hangs at a very high idle between 1500 and 2000. The only way for me to clear this is to come to a full stop and wait in neutral. It will then back down and behave from there on out. It does this every time though consistently until I go through this routine.

Any help is much appreciated
TIA

The GPS is great for checking the speedo, as long as you know that it lags a second or 2 behind the speedo reading, so you just have to maintain a speed for several seconds to verify.
Lowering the HZ value will lower the reading on the speedo, it will take several tries to get it right.
The high idle issue could be many things, just remember that the idle setting only functions at zero speed and zero TPS.
If you wish, set the log time in the Basic Parameters section to 0.2 seconds, then go out and get it hot, stop at your house, let it sit for the "fuel stop" time, and restart, ride a short distance until you get it to settle, and return home, don't ride to far or else the log will not have the restart on it.
Then post the downloaded .log and .dat files here.

[yukonjak]

Originally Posted by Dogwood

Post the .dat file that you are using and the .log file from your last run, be sure to compress both into a .zip file to upload here.
Also, please provide details on the Jim's engine.

Thanx for your reply...
I have an 04 FLSTCI ..with a fresh Jim's 120...using DDT GenIID module...50mm Tmax throttle body and intake manifold...V&H Big Longshots c/w Power Chamber...
I don't have a zip file compression utility so could you send info to

yukonjak at hot male you know the rest...just in case VT forums rejects addy's...

I am using a map built for a 95" 105 hp build...Jim's 120 worked good on a dyno...116 hp and 124 ft.lbs torque on the first run...did 5 more runs and AFR was stable at 13%...
I need the timing map to make sure I am not over timing the engine...plus I want to maximize hp without losing highway cruising abilities...

I would appreciate any help you guys can offer...

thanx

jack

[yukonjak]

Originally Posted by tpierce67

Hey guys, I'm new to the DTT. I just installed the TCFI 3 on my 07 Street Bob. All in all things seems to be coming along nicely. I've applied BLM's about 3 times. I have severe decel popping when I wind up the RPM's and let off the throttle. I don't have a tach so I can't really tell where it happens but It is as the RPM's are coming down.

I also have pinging when rolling on the throttle and when up in the RPM range in 5th or 6th gear. I've searched this entire thread and read most of it too but most of the talk is about the TCFT2. My Dyna is stock except for Slip-ons and SE AC.
If I could get some help it would greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Just some additional info if others have not already helped you

On decel popping...watch RPM and throttle position and when decel popping starts lean out the afr at those specific RPMs....

On the knock...
Same procedure only adjust advance timing table...lower the timing at those specific RPMs where you get the knock...only lower timing a couple degrees max at a time till knock dissappears...

Once you change the AFR table you might make the Knock disappear also....so check before changing timing table...

hope that helps

jack

[yukonjak]

Originally Posted by cts1950

I had some bad luck recently. I have the dtt set to allow 1 rev before starting and I had it kick back hard enough to halt the starter abruptly. I had to use the compression releases to get started. It happened again several days later I got more careful about the releases. Well my clutch started slipping over the weekend so I took the side cover off to check it out and found the clutch assembly had a noticeable wobble to it. The long and the short of it the main shaft on the SE 6 speed has a .010 bend in the last 3 inches where the clutch slips on to the spline. That was a 320 dollar mistake just for the shaft. I am wondering about backing off the timing way off at the cells below 1000 would stop this problem from recurring.

I had the same problem with Jim's 120...It has compression releases so I had to make a habit of using them...also....

I talked to Jim's about start timing...they suggest backing off the timing for start up to 6 degrees...it won't hurt anything and makes it a lot easier on the starter...