Daytona Twin-Tech TCFI tuning

[yukonjak]

I rebuilt a map by using the advance map you sent and an alpha-n table from a the build I rode last year and it works great....no red cells and only a few readings between 90 and 105 %
...i'll do some tweaking and let you know...

[yukonjak]

after resetting the blms and making a 5% adjustment in the 1250-3000rpm range cells at 5% - 35% throttle range in the alpha-n table i went for a 100 mile run and it went good till I started to make the return trip...then it ran hard....lots of vibration in the engine at cruising speeds (70-80 mph),,,engine seemed to run hard like the advance was too far ahead...
why would the engine run so smooth on the initial flash from the map built and run so differently on the second run with only a 5% increase on the alpha n table in the throttle ranges mentioned??
qite a differenc...
I reloaded the intial map that uses your advance table and my apha n table from last years flash...the engine runs awesome on that flash but I am reluctant to reset the blms and create a change that loses something in the smoothness i had in the initial run...
I'd like some understanding on what transpires once you reset the blms after a flash and run...why does the engine seem to run so differnetly after a reset...especially after the second reset...

thanx C
jack

[cts1950]

I have a question about the reset function of the BLM also. Dose the reset return to a default value and erase all the times you applied the blm. I accidentally hit the reset and the bike would hardly run. I am unsure what the reason for that function is. I too am tring to understand the set up of the dtt.

[Curtis Shipp]

Originally Posted by yukonjak

after resetting the blms and making a 5% adjustment in the 1250-3000rpm range cells at 5% - 35% throttle range in the alpha-n table i went for a 100 mile run and it went good till I started to make the return trip...then it ran hard....lots of vibration in the engine at cruising speeds (70-80 mph),,,engine seemed to run hard like the advance was too far ahead...
why would the engine run so smooth on the initial flash from the map built and run so differently on the second run with only a 5% increase on the alpha n table in the throttle ranges mentioned??
qite a differenc...
I reloaded the intial map that uses your advance table and my apha n table from last years flash...the engine runs awesome on that flash but I am reluctant to reset the blms and create a change that loses something in the smoothness i had in the initial run...
I'd like some understanding on what transpires once you reset the blms after a flash and run...why does the engine seem to run so differnetly after a reset...especially after the second reset...

thanx C
jack

Recheck your wego II and O2 calibration.

[Curtis Shipp]

Originally Posted by cts1950

I have a question about the reset function of the BLM also. Dose the reset return to a default value and erase all the times you applied the blm. I accidentally hit the reset and the bike would hardly run. I am unsure what the reason for that function is. I too am tring to understand the set up of the dtt.

The reset only sets the blm for the net run. It does not change the alpha-n's. As the alpha's change it also changes the front cyl trim. Check to see what your afr is at when you start up. It takes a lot of work to make this thing run, start good and get good mileage. Also check your tps voltage. Mine went from 4.0 to 4.5 and it has messed my map up. It did this with out me changing a thing. So I will have to check my install or it is the tps going bad.

[cts1950]

Curtis
Yes I to found my tps voltage had drifted way off and I had to readjust it. That may be why it ran poorly after the adjustment. If the alpha n was corrected to a maladjusted tps. I guess I had thought that I had hit the reset. So to get this straight after applying the blms to the front and rear cylinders then hit the reset button before the next ride that will set all fields back to 100s?
Curtis I really appreciate your input The manual leaves much to be desired. I am just trying to understand the adjustments. Was I wrong in my assumption that if the o2 sensor shows that you are leaner than your afr table you need to increase the base pulse width the dyno graph showed almost 17:1 on throttle up?

[Curtis Shipp]

Originally Posted by cts1950

Curtis
Yes I to found my tps voltage had drifted way off and I had to readjust it. That may be why it ran poorly after the adjustment. If the alpha n was corrected to a maladjusted tps. I guess I had thought that I had hit the reset. So to get this straight after applying the blms to the front and rear cylinders then hit the reset button before the next ride that will set all fields back to 100s?
Curtis I really appreciate your input The manual leaves much to be desired. I am just trying to understand the adjustments. Was I wrong in my assumption that if the o2 sensor shows that you are leaner than your afr table you need to increase the base pulse width the dyno graph showed almost 17:1 on throttle up?

When you first throttle up you will go lean for a second. This is what the Asynchronous fuel gain is supposed to cover up, like accelerator pump on a carb. If you go lean for a long period of time increase the gain and go up on the alpha # at wot low rpm. I tell my engine that I have 3.8 injectors to make it respond better.

[yukonjak]

checked o2 sensors and wego...also check for leaks in manifold...all OK

[cts1950]

Curtis
I can relate with telling the computer you have smaller injectors in that it increases the pulse width to pump the additional fuel for the hp.
Example set up page
100 hp 3.8 injector pw 13.7
130 hp 4.88 injector pw 13.87
100 hp 4.88 injector pw 10.67
Will changing the estimated hp do effectively the same thing as under estimating injector size? By telling the computer what hp you are expecting will that limit your real hp because the computer will only give you enough fuel to make the estimated hp? Is this in effect to setting the main jet on a carb.

On the dyno run I posted I had the estimated hp at 100 and I got 98.2 of course I was hoping for more but did I limit it by my hp estimate?

The asynchronous gain as accelerator pump works for my feeble brain thanks. Are their any settings equivalent to a power valve?

I was reading some posts on a different form about the afrs for straight pump gas compared to the 10% ethanol blend that we are stuck with the stoic ends up 14.1 for the blend. That makes me want re think where I have my afrs set.

When looking at the log files if your wot readings come up say 13.5 and your map says 12.5 how do you adjust that and is it important for max power? I have been experimenting with the higher hp estimate and have been seeing closer correlation with my map settings and the afrs at the O2 sensors is this a valid way for tuning? I have been studying my log files trying to learn to use them as a tool to understand computer input vs what comes out the other end.

[BigDeuce]

Stupid question for you advanced tuners here. How do you write/apply the BLM's?

[cts1950]

Do you have a Twin Tech Ecm Your other posts say you are looking for pcIII maps?

If you have a Twin Tech try the following.

The blm is written by the computer while the engine is running. It is a stored record of adjustments the computer had to make to try to match the afr in the exhaust to that in the afr table. When you connect to your lap top to your data port you will down load the data. Go to the edit on the tool bar and from the drop down select 3D. From there select the blm and open either the front or rear blm chart this allows you to see what cells you are having problems with. To apply the blm to the ecm you select the same path as before but select apply the front or rear blm to the ecm. If you check the blm tables again you will see that it will have more numbers in the 100s. If I have got this right if there are cells that weren't reset to 100 then the last option on the drop down for the blm is to reset the blms that will force all the cells to 100. Then you ride some more to collect more data and do this all over again. It will if every thing is working right after about 10 to 15 applications over 1000 to 1500 miles will trim it in. I hope this answered your question.

[BigDeuce]

Yes I was looking for a map for a PCIII also because I cannot get this DTT to work right. I have a
124" Twin Cam "B"
10.5:1 Pistons
Woods TW6-GH Cam
SE Srpings
Kuryakyn 57mm TB
Yellow band injectors
Ported Edlebrock heads
Rivera Pro Clutch
Rinehart caliber 2-1
Fueling pump and lifters
Delkron cam plate
6-Speed

I followed directions and got a map installed I used the one curtis did for the guy with the 103" dresser, it seemed to work better than the default 95" at startup. Man I get pop and bangs out the exaust and carb even after it warms up it will only rev to about 1800 rpm in gear pulls strong till then... maybe something else is wrong valve lash or something... big flat spot off idle too. Any help would be appreciated. I am a computer consultant, ex mechanic, mechanically inclined indivudal I used to race cars with my brother and I thought I should be able to figure this out but I do not know where to start. A guide would be nice...

[wkohn]

Originally Posted by BigDeuce

Yes I was looking for a map for a PCIII also because I cannot get this DTT to work right. I have a
124" Twin Cam "B"
10.5:1 Pistons
Woods TW6-GH Cam
SE Srpings
Kuryakyn 57mm TB
Yellow band injectors
Ported Edlebrock heads
Rivera Pro Clutch
Rinehart caliber 2-1
Fueling pump and lifters
Delkron cam plate
6-Speed

I followed directions and got a map installed I used the one curtis did for the guy with the 103" dresser, it seemed to work better than the default 95" at startup. Man I get pop and bangs out the exaust and carb even after it warms up it will only rev to about 1800 rpm in gear pulls strong till then... maybe something else is wrong valve lash or something... big flat spot off idle too. Any help would be appreciated. I am a computer consultant, ex mechanic, mechanically inclined indivudal I used to race cars with my brother and I thought I should be able to figure this out but I do not know where to start. A guide would be nice...

The PCIII will not be able to handle your 124 from what I have heard. You would have to use the DTT or a SERT with a HQ ProTuner.

Somethings to double check.
Exhaust flanges and muffler clamps, make sure they are tight.
TPS make sure it is at .4 volts when cold.
Good connection on IAC sensor? Is IAC sensor good?
Make sure that throttle plate is closed/about .001" to .003" max open.
Intake manifold flanges are tight and gasket is sealing.

These are all things I have had to fix that were making my bike act like your's.

[tomdubya]

I have a TCFI II + Wego 2d setup for sale in the classified section if anyone is looking for one.

T

[Curtis Shipp]

Originally Posted by cts1950

Curtis

Are their any settings equivalent to a power valve?

Add 20% to alpha-n's so that when you open throttle it goes to high alpha default before blms pull fuel down.

I was reading some posts on a different form about the afrs for straight pump gas compared to the 10% ethanol blend that we are stuck with the stoic ends up 14.1 for the blend. That makes me want re think where I have my afrs set.

Lower afr to 13.8 and see what happens.

When looking at the log files if your wot readings come up say 13.5 and your map says 12.5 how do you adjust that and is it important for max power? I have been experimenting with the higher hp estimate and have been seeing closer correlation with my map settings and the afrs at the O2 sensors is this a valid way for tuning? I have been studying my log files trying to learn to use them as a tool to understand computer input vs what comes out the other end.

How long do you hold wot and is this on the street or dyno. I do all my wot runs on I-65 in Alabama. Normally for 5 to 10 miles in 5th gear. This gives the blm's time to set.

Read above. I do not cut and paste much.