Daytona Twin-Tech TCFI tuning

[wkohn]

Curtis,

Is there a formula for figuring out what the advance should be at a given point along with the AFR for that point?

I ask because I am trying to maximize my fuel mileage since I use my bike as a daily rider.

I have a 95 cu in, HQ-0034G cam, 9.9 to 1 compression, Gerolamy Throttle body, True Dual exhaust (B&E mufflers). Have a roll-on spark knock at 70mph.

Thanks,
Bill

[Curtis Shipp]

Originally Posted by wkohn

Curtis,

Is there a formula for figuring out what the advance should be at a given point along with the AFR for that point?

I ask because I am trying to maximize my fuel mileage since I use my bike as a daily rider.

I have a 95 cu in, HQ-0034G cam, 9.9 to 1 compression, Gerolamy Throttle body, True Dual exhaust (B&E mufflers). Have a roll-on spark knock at 70mph.

Thanks,
Bill

Send me your map and I will fix your roll on knock and you can look and see how it should be. There is no formula that I know of.

[wkohn]

Originally Posted by Curtis Shipp

Send me your map and I will fix your roll on knock and you can look and see how it should be. There is no formula that I know of.

Curtis,

Thanks. It just yesterday put up a code for the IAT which it has never done before and the idle has gotten bad. I'm thinking my throttle body flange is loose.

The spark advance I am betting is nowhere nears being correct.

I'll try to attach the map. Not sure of how to do this.

Bill

[jasilva]

TCFI gone SERT tune done. Man what a difference, any of you who think that the TCFI is doing your build justice are missing out. My bike has never started, idled or run this well. Absolutely no codes thrown, starts first try every time, power is great 101hp/105tq out of a 95"(and yes these are SAE corrected numbers). I'll post the dyno run file here if you want to see it but I'm done with this thread after that. No looking back now.




Joe

[ktwillys]

Originally Posted by jasilva

TCFI gone SERT tune done. Man what a difference, any of you who think that the TCFI is doing your build justice are missing out. My bike has never started, idled or run this well. Absolutely no codes thrown, starts first try every time, power is great 101hp/105tq out of a 95"(and yes these are SAE corrected numbers). I'll post the dyno run file here if you want to see it but I'm done with this thread after that. No looking back now.




Joe

Joe... Im glad you got your running great finally.....

Yeah post your dyno sheet if you dont mind....

I have gotten mine to actually run pretty well with no codes....
I do get a blip in the tachometer when I first start up but nothing else..

I still have that dam hesitation off Idle too.. now that has me totaly irritated....

My fuel milage is down way to much... it has been at 28 but now have it up to 35 now but still to low.

I am not far from the SERT myself...

My dyno numbers were 97/98 and it was still a little off...

If it wasnt for the fact that I have to change the intake maifold to go back to the SERT then I think that I would have done it already..

are you using the SERT or the Super SERT (open vs closed loop)

[jasilva]

KT, I'm using the regular SERT, the tuner wasn't to impressed with the new SERT and I think for any future work the SERT/TTS Mastertune will be a better way to go.

http://www.v-twinforum.com/forums/at...1&d=1208672346

[wkohn]

Originally Posted by Curtis Shipp

Send me your map and I will fix your roll on knock and you can look and see how it should be. There is no formula that I know of.

Curtis,

Thanks for the map.

I have some questions if you have the time. I'm trying to get an understanding of why a HD has to run so rich.

1. Why would it need to be set at 12.7 for idle verses somewhere in the 13s?
2. Then once you are passed idle why not lean it out since you have reduced the timing?
3. Did you go to a class somewhere to learn how to tune the DTT?

One of these days I hope to get this figured out.

Thank you for your help,
Bill

[sdbryant]

Originally Posted by sdbryant

Curtis Shipp

Your rework on my map has done wonders. I took a 20 minute ride tonight after uploading it and the popping is gone. Now I want to analyze and compare to see how you worked this magic. Thanks for your help with this issue.

SB

CS,

I ran the bike some more and applied the blm's. The multiple decel popping has stopped but I now get a loud single pop on deceleration, I'm guessing at about 1500 rpm or so. Otherwise, there is a noticeable improvement in elimination of the overall popping.

I have checked the flange nut torque and I don't believe I have a leak.

I also noticed a fuel smell in the garage after I parked the bike last night, not sure if that would have any meaning or not. Seems like I have seen someone mention this before.

I have attached my latest map in hopes you can take another look, I really appreciate all your help.

SB

[Curtis Shipp]

Originally Posted by wkohn

Curtis,

Thanks for the map.

I have some questions if you have the time. I'm trying to get an understanding of why a HD has to run so rich.

1. Why would it need to be set at 12.7 for idle verses somewhere in the 13s?
2. Then once you are passed idle why not lean it out since you have reduced the timing?
3. Did you go to a class somewhere to learn how to tune the DTT?

One of these days I hope to get this figured out.

Thank you for your help,
Bill

I set the AFR rich to help off idle throttle response. I lean it slowly due to the fact slow speed mean less airflow over the cylinders in stop and go traffic it helps on heat problems. The timing is low for starting then comes up to max around cruise and lite throttle settings = 16" map 2750/3000 rpm. The timing comes off fast as you apply throttle to avoid detonation. My timing is higher on my bike due to my riding style of never lugging the engine. On the maps I do for other people I leave out some timing and wait and see what the motor and rider feed back is before I push the issue. On the afr you can lean it out with no problem. But do it slowly and watch your live view for cold start lean out as the alpha-n's change after you apply them. This is what I like about the DTT I can change it as conditions change. I did not go to school on the DTT. I would redo my map on my bike and watch what happened. I went so far as setting alpha-n's at 40% at 0 throttle to 100% across the rest. Then let the bike tune its self based on my afr numbers that I had set. It took only three trips of 15 minutes and blm applies and it had the bike running with no problems. I also read a lot of BBrowncods post. He started me on the path to understanding the DTT system. The rest is just time spent making changes and riding to see what happened.
One other thing about timing. Most of the time you run on the 16"map setting. All other timing numbers are for hard acceleration. So lite to mild throttle settings get all the timing you have dialed in. When you punch it you drop timing for just a second or two then it is back to max numbers as the rpm's build and map pressures drop.

[Curtis Shipp]

Originally Posted by sdbryant

CS,

I ran the bike some more and applied the blm's. The multiple decel popping has stopped but I now get a loud single pop on deceleration, I'm guessing at about 1500 rpm or so. Otherwise, there is a noticeable improvement in elimination of the overall popping.

I have checked the flange nut torque and I don't believe I have a leak.

I also noticed a fuel smell in the garage after I parked the bike last night, not sure if that would have any meaning or not. Seems like I have seen someone mention this before.

I have attached my latest map in hopes you can take another look, I really appreciate all your help.

SB

Map is on the way.

[Dogwood]

What is the entry in the Edit Basic Module Parameters window that is labeled “Base Injector Pulse Width (msec)”?
It appears to be un-editable.
Is it determined by the input of the other entries?

[Dogwood]

Originally Posted by sdbryant

I also noticed a fuel smell in the garage after I parked the bike last night, not sure if that would have any meaning or not. Seems like I have seen someone mention this before.

Intake Manifold Seals?
I had one leaking and I got the "gas in the garage" smell.

[sdbryant]

It's actually not a gas smell, it is more of a burnt fuel smell.

[ktwillys]

Curtis...

How is it going... well I hope....

I sent you an email with the results of the maps you sent me a month or so ago..
I made a few minor changes but nothing really to affect the running of the bike..

The map that you sent was very close... and made a lot of difference..


In the email I did forget one thing.... My Idle is hanging when I come to a stop... it will hang at around 1200 or 1300 for a few seconds.. 3 or 4 up to maybe 10 or 15 seconds.. and then will drop down to the 852 that it is set at....

I know that is a bit low but I sure do like it there.....900 is just a tad to high..


Have a great day

[Curtis Shipp]

Originally Posted by ktwillys

Curtis...

In the email I did forget one thing.... My Idle is hanging when I come to a stop... it will hang at around 1200 or 1300 for a few seconds.. 3 or 4 up to maybe 10 or 15 seconds.. and then will drop down to the 852 that it is set at....

I know that is a bit low but I sure do like it there.....900 is just a tad to high..


Have a great day

Use the ET based IAC to lower the idle speed as you come to a stop. But watch out for stalling. You will just have to play with all of your IAC controls to get it right for your setup.