Daytona Twin-Tech TCFI tuning

[Screw Loose]

Originally Posted by FLSTCI124"

What would cause the ET on the TCFI log to not even be on the chart? Oil temp is usually 200F during a 80-85mph ride.

Also, getting the following codes from yesterdays ride:

P0505-IAC Low / 1 trip

P0505-IAC High / 1 trip

P0374-Cylinder Sync Lost / 2 trips

Front & Rear BLM's have a few red cells and I tried Apply but they still are off.

I also notice that according to the TCFI Log, the volts are between 13 & 14 even at speed. I know a Twin Cam is supposed to put out 14 at idle and figured it would slightly increase at 2000rpm or better?

New battery, voltage regulator and fairly new stator...

What do you mean by "ET on the TCFI log to not even be on the chart"? Is it low or high? It's just not showing up? Is this in the Real-time view or the chart view?

I more or less resigned myself to having P0374/P0373 errors. After multiple discussions with Chris, it's my understanding that when this gets thrown at start-up it's usually due to low voltage. I checked and rechecked all my connections. Chris' suggestion had been to put a heavy duty battery in...and I would, except no one makes a heavy duty battery for the late model Sportster.

FWIW, I normally see between 13.6 and 14 volts while cruising.

Are you having idling problems? Or just the error codes indicating a problem with the IAC?

[Screw Loose]

Originally Posted by Screw Loose

In my quest to improve things I've been looking for a better way to view the logs. The files are simply CSV files and with a little messaging I am able to load them into Megasquirt's log program, MegaLogViewer. Problem is the BLM values. The two values in the CSV file are "Interleaved BLM" and "BLM Cell Number". I have no idea how to calculate front and rear BLM. Any ideas? The other interesting item I see is "Status Flags". It clearly shows open loop vs. closed, but I'm sure it's showing something else.

Here's a screen shot in my gallery of what it looks like.http://www.v-twinforum.com/gallery/d...aViewerLog.jpg

Well, I answered my own question...

So I worked with the developer of the MegaLogViewer program and he was easily able figure out how to pull the TCFI's downloaded log files in without me having to mess with them. He included TCFI capabilty with his latest release as well as SERT logs (download here). This is free to download, but it is shareware so there is a nag screen. But, if you find it useful throw the guy $20. I have no affiliation, just a happy user of the software.

Anyway, to get BLM values you have to add a custom field (Under the Calculated Field Menu).

Field Name: Front BLM
Formula:  [Status Flags]&4?[Interleaved BLM]:[Interleaved BLM-1]

Field Name: Rear BLM
Formula: [Status Flags]&4?[Interleaved BLM-1]:[Interleaved BLM]

For anyone that really wants to know; Basically the 4th bit (in binary) of the Status Flag field indicates if the the Interleaved BLM value is for the front or for the rear. You should just be able to cut and paste the code above...

So, I'm happy now. No more looking at just two lines in the TCFI log viewer. I can easily see 12 data points at any given time. Just much easier to track down what I'm looking at.

Here's a link to another screen shot in my gallery. (And yes, I know my BLM's are off...I just put new exhaust and A/C on last night!)

[bbrowncods]

That is awesome Screw Loose! Thanks! I am very familiar with Megasquirt but never thought that I could use Viewer for the TCFI.

[ktwillys]

Screw Loose thanks for the link.. looks very cool, now all I got to do is figure out what I am looking at...
I am not sure about the BLM cell number line but will have to work on it..
Is there a way to get the BLM number up on the screen?
thanks again

[Screw Loose]

Good to see other people finding the MegaLogViewer useful. Ironically when I call Chris at Daytona to ask him about figuring out the BLM values, he told me that I was probably the only one that would care or be able to figure out what I was looking at so he didn't offer much help. He thought most of the people using his product weren't smart enough to figure out looking at a chart with more the two lines on it.

Working with the developer of the MegaLogViewer, he suggested a tweak to my BLM formula (will apparently work better if there's missing data for some reason). You can just go in and edit the previous formula:

Front BLM = [Status Flags]&4?[Interleaved BLM]:[Front BLM]
Rear BLM = [Status Flags]&4?[Rear BLM]:[Interleaved BLM]

As far as the BLM Cell number field, we probably have to map out what RPM/TP fields correspond to which BLM cell. Seems like a lot of work, and not really worth the effort to me. In other words:

BLM Cell Number = 2 means RPM = 1000 and TP = 0
BLM Cell Number = 24 means RPM = 1500 and TP 2.5
BLM Cell Number = 46 means RPM = 2000 and TP = 5

Since I believe there is 220 cells in the BLM chart, there's some work in figuring all that out. But if we get all that I believe it would be pretty easy within the MegaLogViewer to correlate that BLM Cell Number to RPM/TP in the BLM chart if you think it's actually worth it. I just keep the RPM, and TP as the two values in my top chart.

Another hint...if your trying to compare front and rear values it's often helpful to set the scaling to be the same. Just go to "Calculated Fields" menu -> "Fixed field Min and Max" -> Add Fixed field Min and Max. Make sure you type the field name EXACTLY the same as it's shown in the graph - capitalization counts!! You may also find it useful to normalize some graphs...like Bat Volts. Whenever my bike starts the volts go WAY low, so the autoscaling sets it to 0 - 14.2 (or whatever). Well, I don't really care about the volts at startup. So, I set it to 10 - 15. Makes for a prettier graph.

[FLSTCI124"]

Damn,

Guess that makes us normal folk the village idiot cause I have no clue what the hell I'm doing & after looking at your post I fully understand that I am not catching up anytime soon...


Then again, I didn't start this build with any delusions thinking I'm the tuner of the year.

Or perhaps I would be like Chris?

Trust me, after all the money I have invested in this build I can only wish to hell I had just contacted either Hillside or Randy...

I could of had well past a 131" at this point and I wouldn't of wasted my time & money trying to use a system I'm fully not qualified (as a genius) to play with.

If I could find a shop that COULD tune a TCFI IID or any DTT product within 150 miles of my house you can bet your ass this nightmare would of been there last year!

Thank goodness there are others on this forum that understand this system and are willing to help out us simpletons...

Every shop near me swears by the SERT & if I hadn't invested so much damn money you can bet I would switch over to a SERT in a heartbeat...

(If I can find a used ECU from an 01 softail for a good price I STILL might bite the bullet and switch to a SERT)

[ktwillys]

Originally Posted by FLSTCI124"

Damn,

Guess that makes us normal folk the village idiot cause I have no clue what the hell I'm doing & after looking at your post I fully understand that I am not catching up anytime soon...


Then again, I didn't start this build with any delusions thinking I'm the tuner of the year.

Or perhaps I would be like Chris?

Trust me, after all the money I have invested in this build I can only wish to hell I had just contacted either Hillside or Randy...

I could of had well past a 131" at this point and I wouldn't of wasted my time & money trying to use a system I'm fully not qualified (as a genius) to play with.

If I could find a shop that COULD tune a TCFI IID or any DTT product within 150 miles of my house you can bet your ass this nightmare would of been there last year!

Thank goodness there are others on this forum that understand this system and are willing to help out us simpletons...

Every shop near me swears by the SERT & if I hadn't invested so much damn money you can bet I would switch over to a SERT in a heartbeat...

(If I can find a used ECU from an 01 softail for a good price I STILL might bite the bullet and switch to a SERT)

FL.... well said.. and I agree with you... I still have my sert and the ecm that goes with it.. I would have to go back to the stock throttle body but then that sure wouldnt bother me at all at this point.
I am especially pissed because I have done every thing that Chris tells you to do to get the optimum performance out of their system... dual intake and dual exhaust of a certain type and even brand name stuff..

Anyway I have a question,
What would happen if you just blocked off the IAC unit and used the throttle stop screw like a idle set screw.... I know you would have to leave the IAC attached to the wiring harness but the computer wouldnt know the difference. It would still screw the IAC screw in and out but the throttle plates would control the idle.
then it wouldnt matter what you set the idle parameter at and I think it would just go straight to the idle that you have set with the set screw...

does this all make sense or am I just full of POOOOOOOOO?

[FLSTCI124"]

Originally Posted by ktwillys

Anyway I have a question,
What would happen if you just blocked off the IAC unit and used the throttle stop screw like a idle set screw.... I know you would have to leave the IAC attached to the wiring harness but the computer wouldnt know the difference. It would still screw the IAC screw in and out but the throttle plates would control the idle.
then it wouldnt matter what you set the idle parameter at and I think it would just go straight to the idle that you have set with the set screw...

does this all make sense or am I just full of POOOOOOOOO?

Beats the hell out of me kt...

Better call and ask an expert. You want to sell that SERT and ECU?

Honestly, I don't figure I really need the level of expertise tuning that DTT / Chris is putting out. Especially since nobody can figure out how to tune to his level. Funny how DTT puts out a product but offers no in-house tuning themsleves...

[ktwillys]

Originally Posted by FLSTCI124"

Beats the hell out of me kt...

Better call and ask an expert. You want to sell that SERT and ECU?

Honestly, I don't figure I really need the level of expertise tuning that DTT / Chris is putting out. Especially since nobody can figure out how to tune to his level. Funny how DTT puts out a product but offers no in-house tuning themsleves...

You would think that they would be the ones to do the in house tuning so that they at least would know how things work just not on paper.
I think that Chris is one of those super smart guys that can make stuff but when it comes to reality I think he is imtimdated. His bed side manner is not the greatest but then again whose is..
The ECU that I have is for a touring bike and also an injected bike..I dont think it would work on your bike,,
And if I cant get rid of this off idle hesitation by time it really warms up then I am dumping the DTT and going back to the stock throttle body, the SERT and probably even go with a smaller cam.. I will bet that I could even go back to the Thunderheader and it would be ok...
The next tough thing would be finding a good SERT tuner in my area.....

[Curtis Shipp]

KT send me your map and I will look at it.
FL I have your map and will be sending it back to you soon. Will see you in early may.
Off idle hesitation can be helped by a rich idle afr. This covers up the hole when you first open the throttle until the FI catches up.

[ktwillys]

Curtis.. I will zip them up and send them both to you.
I hope you can help.
I have tried as low as 12.5 in the idle range but then (and I still have ) the front cylinder tends to drop to 10 or 10.5 when I come off of either a blip or even after a long run and drop to the idle. It does only stay there for a short time but does cause the idle to drop out of range and the IAC at the same time drops to 15 or lower but does return to a higher level..

[FLSTCI124"]

Curtis,

Thanks for all the help you provide to others on this forum. Perhaps when I see what a good map & log are supposed to look like and when I see you in May I'll get a better understanding of DTT tuning procedures.

Thanks again!

[ktwillys]

Curtis,, Ditto with what FL said..

Where in Bama are you located?

[Curtis Shipp]

Originally Posted by ktwillys

Curtis,, Ditto with what FL said..

Where in Bama are you located?

I live near Cullman in north central Alabama. My shop is in Birmingham.

[ktwillys]

Originally Posted by Curtis Shipp

I live near Cullman in north central Alabama. My shop is in Birmingham.

Not to bad only 1350 miles away.. guess I had better rely on the email thing.. still hope we get to cross paths someday.. drinks are on me...