Daytona Twin-Tech TCFI tuning

[FLSTCI124"]

Did you get the MAP?

[jasilva]

Originally Posted by Curtis Shipp

E-mail me your map and let me take a look. Send it with the red.

Curtis, would you post up what you find in his map regarding his kickback issues and the lost crank position code. I've got the same issues with mine right now. Especially the CKP lost code. Also when I get the lost CKP code my odometer goes back to the total miles instead of showing the Trip A that I leave it on all the time. The mileage in Trip A is still there when I go back to that setting. I'm at the point with this DTT that if I can find a decent SERT tuner in Norcal I'm dumping this thing.








Joe

[FLSTCI124"]

Silva,

I've just about reached that point also... DTT is now putting out a version III and I can't even get version II working smoothly!


I'm in the market for a local (?) indy with a Dyno that KNOWS his **** dialing in my 124" and TCFI II.

Gonna hide a wet NOS system in my saddle bag (which again ties into the DTT system) after the holidays

Curtis, are you there? I have no problem forking out my retirement check to an indy that stands behind his ****...


Proof is in the pudding...








Joe[/quote]

[jasilva]

I don't know about tuning the TCFI but you've got THE best SERT tuner in the country right there in N. FL. I'd chuck the TCFI and see Doc if I were you. He's the guy who trains everyone on SERT tuning.





Joe

[wkohn]

Hey guys,

You know that www.head-quarters-usa.com has come out with what they call a ProTuner for use with the SERT. Have heard that many guys are having great success with it. Running up to a 120".

Bill

P.S. I make no money off of HQ.

[todd comer]

Does the TCFI have the ability to tune such a large engine?Also,has anyone with a 124" had luck with the the TCFI?It took a while for my 98" to get dialed in.Could not imagine the larger dispalcement engines.

[FLSTCI124"]

According to te DTT website they have used their product on motors up to 145"

I'm about ready to put mine in the back of a truck and make a road trip to South Florida were they are located...

I'm no expert programming the DTT & I get more confused everytime I download my MAP and try to decipher it.

The reason I'm in this predicament is the indy I had build my motor (who assured me it was no problem - as I was writing out that big check) is now out of business (IMAGINE THAT!) and I'm here learning on my own.

Curtis has been more than kind enough to examine my maps & files and help me out.

I'm not faulting DTT, more my lack of tuning abilty. It's very frustrating to have invested so much money and it's still not right...

Error codes, red cells, baby blue cells, having to put an additional battery in my saddlebag to make sure the motor spins over, etc, etc...

Nothing does a body good better than coming out of a bar at 0300 and your motor will barely turn over much less fire off. LOL!

AND I've got all the bells & whistles that DTT and S&S recomend.

Perhaps if this motor was carb'ed instead I wouldn't have to lug around the 2nd battery? I would of went with a magneto...

Oh well, I'm in too damn deep to quit now. Retired Jarheads don't make that much money & the wife would kill me after all this money spent.

[todd comer]

Like I said: My particular build took a while before it was tuned in.My son just enlisted to be a jar head.

[FLSTCI124"]

My build has been going on for about 2 years now. One of those years I spent NOT riding...
For a person that's used to riding 5-6 days out of the week, I'm a bit beyond disgusted.

On a more positive note, I went into the Corp 3 days after my 17th B-Day. 22 years later, the only reason I retired was they wanted me to move back to Lejeune or Pendleton. From Florida? Were they smokng crack or what? LOL!!!

[jasilva]

Hey FLSTCI, I talked to Chris at DTT today. He thinks my hard starting and throwing the codes for CPS is due to a weak battery. I went ahead and changed it out. Seems better, no kick back even when warmed up and I rode it a bit and started it about 6 times after with no code thrown. Maybe that was the problem. Battery was only 2 years old but it definitely spins faster with the new battery even though the old one showed good voltage.




Joe

[nmandic]

As for the application to bigger engines - mine is 131" and other than some issues with the cold start it runs really great (on suggestion from BBrowncods I added more air in those lower temps and it seems that the problem went away but it's too early to say).

I had DTT single sensor for 114" and it run great too (now I have for 131" 2D). Check my engine details below and if it is any similar I can send you my map to check it out and compare?

Q: My Front Cylinder Trim Table reads 100 in idle cells. Live view shows slightly lean (105) condition for the front cylinder and around 95 for the rear. To make it a bit reacher for the front cylinder only - what do you do; reduce values in Front Trim to say 95%?

NM

[bbrowncods]

NM, I got your maps but I have been swamped. I will get to 'em this weekend. For your question. Your rear is good at 95. Your front is lean, so you add fuel in the Front Trim table only by increasing 100 to 105 (additional 5%). Now the next time in live view front BLM will show slightly rich (95%). This is where you want it. If it is not quite there add more fuel (107) to the Front Trim until front BLM in live view reads 95%.
Don't confuse BLM % with Front Trim %.

[FLSTCI124"]

Silva,
I'm running a Big Boar 350CCA in the stock location and a standard Yuasa battery in the right saddlebag hooked in Parallel so it's still a 12V system but I'm pushing about 600Amps.

I HAVE to do this to insure reliable starting... The indy that assured me this build was "no problem" told me one thing after another I needed to get this thing smooth...

Of course that shop is out of business now and I hear that he's heading back to AZ, where was before coming here...

He put in a relay that supposedly shut off all power to the lights as long as the start button was held down, and another relay that supposedly diverted all electrical power to the coil when said starter button was held down.

Then what I "absolutely needed" was the 10/84 (?) starter ring kit to increase the ratio on my 2.0 Kw Super starter (WITH #2 gauge Sumax battery cables)...

And all this is in conjunction with the dual electronic compression releases that ARE DEFINITELY working (verified by me).

Was wondering if I should drill out the vent holes in the S&S compression releases or add manual compression releases in addition to the electric releases?


Downloaded the DTT info when I got home and I'm still getting the PO134 - Front WEGO Low / Open?

WTF????

[FLSTCI124"]

NMANDIC,

I'm running a S&S 124" Hot kit, .640 lift S&S cams,10.5-1 compression, Fueling Super Pump w/ Feuling lifters, 56mm Zippers TB w/ matching air cleaner, DTT 6.0 injectors, 2.0 Kw starter, 10-84 Ring kit, Cometic base & head gaskets, S&S compression releases that came with the kit, Nology wires, etc...

I realize your running the Dual TB but if you would, send me your MAP just for the hell of it...


Curtis, you there??? I'll find a damn trailer some where!

[jasilva]

FLSTCI, I haven't seen Curtis on here much lately. I would HIGHLY recommend you talk to Doc(HDMD88) he's in Orlando and knows more about HD engines than the rest of the mechanics on here combined. This is not a knock on the rest just a fact.






Joe