Daytona Twin-Tech TCFI tuning - Page 2 : V-Twin Forum: Harley Davidson Forums

niget2002 · 06-12-2006, 10:15 PM

Mine arrived today... hopefully get it installed this weekend!

niget2002 · 06-14-2006, 09:45 AM

Just out of curiosity... What are the odds that the TPS and IAC won't need adjusting?

And since I know they will, let me make sure I know what I'm doing. I have an '06 bike.

For the TPS sensor. If I need to adjust it, then I need to remove the sensor and cut off the little tab off of the back of the sensor. Then I need to enlarge the two holes so that I can rotate the sensor until the correct values show up on the computer screen.

For the IAC control, I adjust the idle stop screw... where is that? I know where it is on a carb, but the manual doesn't show it on the throttle body, can someone describe what I'm looking for? A pictue would be nice too.

Last night, I got the three cables installed into the main harness (The GF was coming over, so I didn't have time to go further). Tonight, I take the pipes off and have the bungs welded to them. While I have them off, I also plan on scraping up the polish and hitting them with a coat of flat black engine paint. Tomorrow, I finish painting... Friday I go to a baseball game, then Saturday morning I start tuning this thing... Then hopefully I get to spend the rest of the weekend riding since next weekend I'm heading to Houston.

The best news so far, is the cables were vary simple to install, and the stock ECM still runs the bike.

niget2002 · 06-16-2006, 10:14 AM

Okay. I answered my last question on my own. I used the search function, and there is a very good set of instructions for the TPS and idle screw.

Now, for a completely different question.

I have the O2 sensors installed, and all that that entails, but the WEGO II comes with enough extra length in the cable I could probably mount the little box under the tail light...

Is it okay to shorten the length in all the cables? Voltage and ground I know it is. The Blue and White cables are data cables, so my guess there is yes. And the two O2 cables are calibrated for Free air anyways, so they should be okay to shorten as well. I'll solder and shrink wrap all connections.

I just want to get someone else's opinion before I start hacking cables.

I get to start calibrating and running the engine tomorrow! I hooked the new computer up last night just to check there were no codes being thrown... there weren't. I also went ahead and took a look at the TPS value... without touching it, it's at .65, so I'll be taking it off and doing the modifications to it too.

bbrowncods · 06-17-2006, 09:59 AM

Call DTT and ask them. I didn't. I just looped them and zip tied.

niget2002 · 06-17-2006, 08:13 PM

It's ALIVE! I still need to adjust the IAC just a little... right now it's running at 20 when the bike is all warmed up.

The TPS was easy to modify and set. The idle screw is going to take a little more work. On the '06 EFI, instead of having a cap over the hole, it's using a "tamper-proof torx" screw. I went to the dealer to see about getting one... no joy. I actually have one of these tools from work, but the problem is that the screw head only has five points instead of 6, so I think there's something else. Any idea where I can find a five-pointed torx key? I tried putting a nut on the back, but that will only allow me to adjust the IAC to a smaller value. I need to find a way of backing the screw out some.

Thanks bbrowncode... I just zip tied them too for now... I'll call DTT on Monday and find out if they can be shortened.

wkohn · 06-18-2006, 06:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by niget2002

Any idea where I can find a five-pointed torx key?

Snap-on would be my guess.

niget2002 · 06-18-2006, 09:25 AM

The plot thickens.... Okay. I've found more information on these weird screws. They are called a Torx Plus TR bit. It's a security type of bit.

http://www.lara.com/torx-plus-tr.htm

I think I'll use a bolt extractor tool to remove this crazy thing, run a thread chaser through the whole to clean it up, and then find some other bolt to replace it.

bedemonster · 06-18-2006, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by niget2002

The plot thickens.... Okay. I've found more information on these weird screws. They are called a Torx Plus TR bit. It's a security type of bit.

http://www.lara.com/torx-plus-tr.htm

I think I'll use a bolt extractor tool to remove this crazy thing, run a thread chaser through the whole to clean it up, and then find some other bolt to replace it.

Thats exactly what I did

niget2002 · 06-18-2006, 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bedemonster

Thats exactly what I did

What type of bolt did you use and how did you thread it?

bbrowncods · 06-18-2006, 07:52 PM

Go to Sears and get the tool! They have them in sets. If I remember they have a hole in the middle of'em.

bedemonster · 06-18-2006, 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by niget2002

What type of bolt did you use and how did you thread it?

I drilled mine out and re-tapped it for a set screw. I also drilled and tapped a second set screw on the side to lock it into position after I got the IAC and TPS dialed in.

niget2002 · 06-20-2006, 09:13 PM

Thanks for all the help guys... I now have the IAC and TPS set. The bike is running great, and calibrating correctly.

LAF · 06-24-2006, 10:21 AM

ECU is at DTT, Wiring done, free air calibration done, PC III back in.

Have to say with a drop in map for 10.5 Branch Heads, and TW55, the bike REALLY likes it. I carry it when I carry tools for trips. Was a nice disaster recovery drill.

Hope to see the ECU Thursday or Friday next week, and it will be in within the hour of receiving it. Like the PC III for disaster recovery on the road, but DO NOT like not seeing what my bike is doing, MISSING the Log files big time.

Time will tell, guess I will throw it in watch live view to temp to see if IAC is right, verify TPS and let it rip. Am very excited about running tunning on the front cylinder rather then log averages.

Guys that have the upgrade what are you seeing in tunning and ridabilty with the new system?

bbrowncods · 06-24-2006, 11:41 AM

LAF, I feel no difference than the old DTT as far as drivability. I have put about 1500 miles on the IID and I have the AFR good. Still tweeking the timing on the new build though.
I was wondering, but never asked DTT, if you tune both the front and rear at the same time, i.e. apply both BLM's at the same time . It may be quicker to tune the rear first; then the front.
Thoughts?

LAF · 06-24-2006, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bbrowncods

LAF, I feel no difference than the old DTT as far as drivability. I have put about 1500 miles on the IID and I have the AFR good. Still tweeking the timing on the new build though.
I was wondering, but never asked DTT, if you tune both the front and rear at the same time, i.e. apply both BLM's at the same time . It may be quicker to tune the rear first; then the front.
Thoughts?

Not sure what the advantage would be? I would think you would want to apply both BLMS to see what effect that has on both cylinders or seat of the pants driving. I don't see what difference it would make front, rear, or both. Share your thoughts?

From what I am understanding this upgrade will allow the separate tunning of the cylinders, to a point as I will still have a common runner for air, only for a heart beat though, I see a Duel Runner coming quickly. I was going to bore the stock but until I pay that, I can have a duel for 150 more. Also still believe duel runners, duel exhaust, and this TCFI I should be able to
truly tune each cylinder separately.

I cant Wait to see the difference front and rear on the logs.