Daytona Twin-Tech TCFI tuning - Page 13 : V-Twin Forum: Harley Davidson Forums

LAF · 10-09-2006, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by strokester

Just a note, Originally it was around 50 and i had to adjust it alot and nock out the brass bushings in the tps to get it back to .40 like Brad suggested.

thanks to bbrownscods and all you guys so far.

Yes and "we" always assume someone reads our posts to see about a rat tail file and those bushings. I can tell you I have it down and my slots are so nice I continue to use the bushings. I found without them the plastic will deform and diminish the TPS screws holding power.

As do as GROCK says and richen 0 and 2.5% in your AF table up to 1250 RPM. I am not sure but you probably can go into the 11.8-12.2 range easily, and maybe lower. At one time I was 11.2 in there.

As a wise man told me a LONG while ago, sometimes the values you put in don't make sense!!!!!!!!!

You would think at 11.2 you would be drowning in fuel at idle, when you just may in actuality be running just right because of individual engine characteristics of your bike, both cold and hot.

The IAC as explained to me is dynamic, what you see in live view, at 110-120C is all that matters. Just make sure you verify it after a few runs. Honestly I found a thorough heating of a hour or so, bring it home and set two box fans in front, let it cool to when I can touch the rocker boxes, fire it up in live view and watch it, making small adjustments watching which way it is going and allowing enough time for the IAC to set and show steady rate. Then I adjust TPS and let it cool again, repeat same cycle until I get it set. After a few runs I use a dab, and I mean tooth pick size dab of JB Weld on the set screw. Mine stays set.

Also uncheck the Automatic Nominal IAC Update in the set up page.

Also I find I have a very repeatable IAC when I allow my bike to warm up. Now I have forged pistons and they take quite a while to get warm and expand, especially here in PA winter. Even when warm out I let my bike warm up for 3-4 minuets, I think it takes 180 secs for the TCFI to go warm in the Live View window, like I say it has worked for me to warm my bike up before I go with the TCFI.

Also DO NOT ALLOW BLM to correct 0 or 2.5% at first until you see enough logs and KNOW you are too fat in those ranges if you even are.

bbrowncods · 10-09-2006, 07:29 PM

He is about there. I looked at his LOG file and Map. GRock hit it right on the head. WAY to lean in the 0% settings. We went through all his tables on the phone and he is now real close.

Hang in there Mike! We'll get it!

HD-Monster-Torq · 10-10-2006, 06:06 AM

GRock, thanks for the reply.
I know the difference between Alpha N and the stock Speed Density system.
But would not have thought the change would have this dramatic effect on idle (settings).

strokester · 10-10-2006, 11:14 AM

Looks like my iac is finally stabile at 29, and i rode it for 45 minutes and the log showed 29 at 110, finally i can move on and learn some more,
thanks

GRock · 10-10-2006, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by strokester

Looks like my iac is finally stabile at 29, and i rode it for 45 minutes and the log showed 29 at 110, finally i can move on and learn some more,
thanks

And there you have it!...............

Just a little more info guys, because of the inter-action between the IAC and other sensors and the dependence on some of these to go to look up tables when they get "confused", any time you have an unstable IAC condition, there is a good chance it is either looking for more or less (almost always more as the TCFI needs to have a readout of about 11.5 to 12.3 at 0% to be happy) fuel as the IAC will try to correct by closing more but the static algorythmic tables will be telling it to do something else. They basically battle back and forth on which calc to go to. Hence, the back and forth with the IAC stepping up and down that will cause the bike to run like crap or even to shut down because of lack of fast enough correction when these conditions are in the extreme. With this system we have learned that MORE fuel at idle will correct more than a few inherent quirks in the TCFI. It will also give you a good starting point to manually smooth the fuel tables starting from 0% as we have all learned that the 2.5% row also is not handled well by the BLM.

strokester · 10-12-2006, 04:57 PM

ok, Im excited now because we are running good and I think all we have to do now is get the hesitation when i nail the throttle tuned out of it, any suggestions?
thanks
mj

sstan · 10-12-2006, 05:10 PM

Try modifying your Delta TPS Fuel Multiplier Table. It acts like an accelerator pump on a carb. Glad to hear you're close.

itsafatboy · 10-12-2006, 07:15 PM

Ok on the 0% and 2.5% table what is a good AFR number to have in there up to the 1250 rpm mark? i currently have 13.0 should it be 12.?

What about the time based iac table leave it with the supplied numbers or leave 0?

on the BLM tables do we leave the 100 in the 0% for the 750,1000,1250,1500 like on the stock table?

on the 2.5% line at 1500 and up is it best to set to 0 or leave at 100 on the blm?

on the basic table should i take out the auto adjust nominal iac it varies for me from 30 to 34 .

2001 flstfi
116" jims
11.5 comp
TW9Fg +4 cams
rev 1.67 rockers
bc 2.0 heads
pro pipe
TCFI 2D
3.37 gearing
feuling plate/oil pump

thanks

Paniolo · 10-12-2006, 08:01 PM

Would any of you guy know who has the best price on the Daytona Twin Tec O2 sensor tuner?

wkohn · 10-12-2006, 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paniolo

Would any of you guy know who has the best price on the Daytona Twin Tec O2 sensor tuner?

www.daytona-twintec.com Just let them know you are a member of v-twinforum

Paniolo · 10-12-2006, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wkohn

www.daytona-twintec.com Just let them know you are a member of v-twinforum

I have been pouring over this thread trying to learn all of this. If I get one, will you guy help me to tune my bike?

strokester · 10-12-2006, 10:24 PM

you looing for a Wego II or Tcfi

bbrowncods · 10-12-2006, 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by itsafatboy

Ok on the 0% and 2.5% table what is a good AFR number to have in there up to the 1250 rpm mark? i currently have 13.0 should it be 12.?

What about the time based iac table leave it with the supplied numbers or leave 0?

on the BLM tables do we leave the 100 in the 0% for the 750,1000,1250,1500 like on the stock table?

on the 2.5% line at 1500 and up is it best to set to 0 or leave at 100 on the blm?

on the basic table should i take out the auto adjust nominal iac it varies for me from 30 to 34.

1. 13 is good if you actually are getting it. Adjust the Alpha-N and front trim manually.

2. Leave time based IAC as supplied until your tuned.

3. For front and rear BLM, I would set 0 in the four 750-1500 blocks @ 0% and the same four @ 2.5%. The rest at 100%. Tune these "0" blocks manually. That is what I do and it works good.

4. Uncheck auto adjust IAC and set to 30.

Make sure your idle stop is set to 30 IAC and .4 volts on the throttle position. Let her tune!!