Who made this frame? : V-Twin Forum: Harley Davidson Forums

55chevr · 10-18-2008, 04:24 PM

I am just starting next years land speed project bike and I was able to find an old style drag frame. Nice welding, nice design, chrome moly steel, weighs 32 lbs. I would like to know who built it.

Joe

Hillsidecycle.com · 10-19-2008, 06:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 55chevr

I am just starting next years land speed project bike and I was able to find an old style drag frame. Nice welding, nice design, chrome moly steel, weighs 32 lbs. I would like to know who built it.

Joe

A lot of folks made frames back in the day.
Car tire XL. Probably for a Nitro class machine.

claydbal · 10-19-2008, 09:16 AM

cool!! we could welcome another LSR build .

55chevr · 10-19-2008, 09:31 AM

I have a Buell S1W White Lightning that I am using for a donor bike. Did the engine to 80 cu in. Heads, cases done by NRHS. Axtell barrels. I am preparing it to race in APS/PF 1350. I have a lot of work to be complete by April for the first ECTA meet of the year. I will definately make the May meet.
Joe

claydbal · 10-19-2008, 09:55 AM

post progress pics during your breaks.

motrhd · 10-19-2008, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 55chevr

I am just starting next years land speed project bike and I was able to find an old style drag frame. Nice welding, nice design, chrome moly steel, weighs 32 lbs. I would like to know who built it.

Joe

You might try checking with Bonnie Truett from Truett & Osborn if he's still around. He built one similar to that for me, maybe he could at least help identify it.

pwmorris · 10-19-2008, 06:47 PM

Also contact Weekend Frame or Puppett-They might be able to ID it-Bigger question is: Do you TRUST it to make a pass at Bonneville?

55chevr · 10-21-2008, 09:45 PM

The frame is chrome moly steel, tig welded. It has 35 degree rake which is ideal for land speed. The motor may be offset to the right which could be a problem. I have to make a steering neck adapter to use the Buell donor front end. This is a well made frame. I will add gusset plated to the steering neck. i am not concerned at all to run this at Bonneville.
Joe

55chevr · 10-26-2008, 02:16 PM

Fab'd some motor mounts off my son in law's iron head. Used .125 steel plate. Same frame spacing as the chrome moly frame. Corresponding engine holes appear to measure the same with a vernier caliper as well.

Measured distance from lower front mount hole to rear evo mount 15-1/8.

Marked the frame. I can shorten the front mounts and relocate the engine forward as an option. Not sure yet.

Rear mount measures 9% incline from vertical. The diagonal brace tube that runs under the engine will interfere with the sump on the evo. I will have to cut it out and review other bracing options. Not sure if it is even needed as this is not a drag bike. Spoke with Dan Dunn (NRHS). Aaron Wilson runs a similar frame which didn't have the brace. I believe it was made for an evo motor. He went 169 at Bub's. I can cut the entire rear mount arrangement off and fab up a new one or chop this one and adapt to the evo.

55chevr · 10-26-2008, 02:24 PM

I lined the front mount hole on the engine with the hole in the mount plate. Transfered the dims to the frame. Leveled everything up and the measurements appear perfect. I will kick everything around before I make any cuts. There are a bunch of options but I am of a mind to keep it simple, get it together and then play later.

55chevr · 11-09-2008, 07:17 PM

Engine is in the frame ... rear mount is tacked ... engine is parallel to the rails .

It looks like I will need a 1/2" spacer under the sprocket. Everything is lined up square and plumb.

I fab'd up a battery box out of steel. Fits stock Buell battery.

I was planning on putting the battery in front of the rear tire. Now I am sure. I may hang it off the front of the frame in front of the engine.

hdmarsh77 · 11-10-2008, 06:22 PM

Another intersting and informative thread!

55chevr · 11-12-2008, 04:59 PM

I reviewed every option relating to an oil tank and the best design option seems to be inside the rear hoop in front of the tire. No one makes anything that looks like it will work so I will have to make it myself. I don't want use aluminum in the an area that I could run over something on the course and possibly hole the tank near the rear tire. I had some 10 gauge sheet steel that is a little heavy but the weight will go in the right area and it is tough. I fab'd up a cardboard template and filled it with styrofoam peanuts to determine volume. Approximately 4 quarts which is more then enough for an XL engine.

I allowed for an inch and a half of clearance from the tire in full forward position. There is an additional 2 inches of chain adjustment available aft.

55chevr · 11-12-2008, 05:00 PM

I tacked the tank together with the mig. I will get my son who is a much better welder then I am to tig it up over the weekend.

55chevr · 11-16-2008, 11:38 AM

The neck insert is complete ... I had to draw it in using 3/4 all thread and a breaker bar ... It was made in 2 pieces. Top half and bottom half.

The bottom half was made flush and the top half is about an inch proud to get the front end as low as possible. The frame was made for a car tire and with a bike tire the rear is already low.

the rear of the frame is 3" off the deck ant the front of the frame is about 3/4" higher. Once the engine weight and rider weight are added it will come down some but I will have to add straps or cut the springs to level it out.