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02-29-2008, 09:29 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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The story of my life!
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, Oregon
Posts: 1,555
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcfatboy
Note yet. I hope to get it in this week coming up. I know its rich at idle when I initially start the bike up.
Thanks!!
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Please let us know how it turns out, I'm really interested how the baffles will affect the torque curve.
Chris
__________________
08 Electra Glide Ultra Classic
Candy red sunglow
103"
SE255 cams
SE Air cleaner
SERT
Fatcat Quiet baffle
Bagger brace
"Ya fargin' sneeky bastage!" Roman Troy Moronie
43 member
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03-01-2008, 12:26 AM
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#17 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Orlando Florida
Posts: 4,797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcfatboy
Doc,
The tuner showed it to me on some other runs/graphs. The one I heard was around 3200 rpm. I am not sure what gear. He told me I could check for clutch slippage by trying to do a "racing start" from a stand-still in 3rd gear. He said bike should stall. If it didn't he said the clutch was slipping.
What do you suggest?
Also, outside not having a good performing 2 into 1 exhaust and not having the 2.0" baffles yet, what do you think of the tune?
Lastly, I did the entire BB install myself.  I was waiting for the engine to blow up during the tune, but everything seemed to go well.
Thanks!!
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To check a clutch a standard ALL GEAR TEST is what we perform, it's not hard on the bike and it;s not hard on the dyno but it WILL reveal a slipping clutch. I don't even see a hint of a slipping clutch in this graph you posted.
It's a great tune though...those are the best numbers I ever got with a 26 cam. The 2'' baffle will help you out on the low end. the numbers I get consistently are 82/90.5 so you can see your running good.
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03-01-2008, 07:32 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: montana
Posts: 1,407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDMD88
To check a clutch a standard ALL GEAR TEST is what we perform, it's not hard on the bike and it;s not hard on the dyno but it WILL reveal a slipping clutch. I don't even see a hint of a slipping clutch in this graph you posted.
It's a great tune though...those are the best numbers I ever got with a 26 cam. The 2'' baffle will help you out on the low end. the numbers I get consistently are 82/90.5 so you can see your running good.
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Doc, I hope you come back to this thread. are those 82/90.5 numbers for 88 or 95? I got 79/91 with just a base line 3 pull run, no tune on a stingy dyno with 26's in 95 with stock heads. I thought they were consistant mid 90's tq and high 80's hp power with a little head work.
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03-07-2008, 05:41 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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Lifetime Premium
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDMD88
To check a clutch a standard ALL GEAR TEST is what we perform, it's not hard on the bike and it;s not hard on the dyno but it WILL reveal a slipping clutch. I don't even see a hint of a slipping clutch in this graph you posted.
It's a great tune though...those are the best numbers I ever got with a 26 cam. The 2'' baffle will help you out on the low end. the numbers I get consistently are 82/90.5 so you can see your running good.
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Thanks Doc!!!
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03-07-2008, 06:05 PM
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#20 (permalink)
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Lifetime Premium
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 298
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2.0" baffles
Well, I got my bike re-tuned today.
Switching baffle size trashed my tune, but Devil Dawg Custom Cycles were great about it!!
I am one happy camper, and highly, highly recommend Will at Devil Dawg CC. Tim and the rest of the gang are wonderful too!!
(The blue graph is the 2.0" baffle tune, the green the 2.5" baffle tune, and the red the untuned 2.0" baffles trashing the 2.5" tune.)

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03-08-2008, 07:50 AM
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#21 (permalink)
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I paid.........did you??
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Biddeford, Maine
Posts: 1,744
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2" baffles are much better for your build.
+10 ft lbs of torque in the low end is a huge improvement and you will feel that for sure.
Steve
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03-08-2008, 10:05 AM
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#22 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: montana
Posts: 1,407
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that is like most AMS 96" 26G builds I have seen, very nice torque and torq curve but just a little less hp than some of the others. Looks like it will be a very nice ride with 90 plus torq over the normal range of riding.
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05-18-2008, 10:14 PM
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#23 (permalink)
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The story of my life!
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, Oregon
Posts: 1,555
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A tq curve like that without a 2-1 pipe should make you very happy. I'm impressed.
How is the mileage so far?
Chris
__________________
08 Electra Glide Ultra Classic
Candy red sunglow
103"
SE255 cams
SE Air cleaner
SERT
Fatcat Quiet baffle
Bagger brace
"Ya fargin' sneeky bastage!" Roman Troy Moronie
43 member
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05-18-2008, 11:28 PM
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#24 (permalink)
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IronButt
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,604
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That is pretty close to what mine dyno'd out at, and I was running a similar build. Back then I had TDs with FullSac mufflers. My TQ came on earlier and was pretty flat across the chart. I've since since changed to a full Zippers Kit, and reinstalled the "Y" pipe. I'm happy with it. Good usable power and a dependable build.
__________________
"Life is what we do everyday until God shows us our destiny"
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05-18-2008, 11:29 PM
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#25 (permalink)
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Lifetime Premium
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 298
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Thanks Ceraaa.
I am getting 32-35 mpg. The tuner said I would probably get around 34 mpg.
Not around 40 mpg like a lot of others, but I am more than pleased.
It seems to like it 3000 rpm and above, so I have changed my shift points to around 3700 rpm. This is putting at about 3000 rpm in the next gear. Do not get me wrong, it is fine 1500-3000 rpm. It's just quicker and more responsive at 3000 rpm and above.
A big plus now is that I can run 87 octane with no issues.
Last edited by dcfatboy : 05-18-2008 at 11:35 PM.
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11-12-2008, 11:28 PM
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#26 (permalink)
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FNG :)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: california
Posts: 2
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Yank the cam?
I hope somebody's still looking at this thread.
I'm new to this forum so here's the stats.
'05 road king 88 ci.
stock top end / compression
Andrews 26G gear cams.
Rinehart 2:1 pipes.
PCIII system
SE air intake, K&N filter etc.
Just got the bike dyno tuned. Started at 69/82, ended up at 85.5 HP and 91 TQ. Hot Damn!! $400 worth of dyno but well worth it.
For a 88 ci she runs great. Here's the question. Somewhere down the line I'm planning on going to the 96" big bore kit. I've seen some of you guys writing about using the 26G cams with the 96" kits and 9.5:1 comp.
The plan is to bore the existing cylinders and get forged pistons, port and flow the stock heads and go with double spring valves. I really don't want to re invent the wheel and replace the cams if I can help it.
I've been reading everything I can find and Andrews says its 26G's will go up to a 95" bore and doesn't say a thing about increased compression. In fact they say they're designed for stock comp.
Anyone with any experience with this set up? What kind of increase can I honestly expect to get in HP / TQ? Will it fall flat on its face?
appreciate any help.
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11-13-2008, 12:29 AM
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#27 (permalink)
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killer sperm
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: pnw
Posts: 2,218
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Hello, welcome to the forum. Take a minute and introduce yourself in the 'My Story, the Beginning forum'.
If you ask your questions in the' V-Twin; Engine Mods' forum you will get a better response. Dunno how much time you've taken searching around here, lots of good information.
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11-13-2008, 06:35 AM
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#28 (permalink)
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Average Dude
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Tuftonboro, NH (near Lake Winnipesaukee)
Posts: 3,803
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You also might want to start your own thread vs. hijack this one.
Anyway.....
You are not going to go from 88 to 96. That requires a crank and piston change. You will likely be boring your jugs and changing pistons to achieve 95".
With a little head cleanup and reworked valves, a set of .030 head gaskets, and a slight bump in compression to say 9.4-1, you should see a few more points of tq and hp. But, don't expect it to breach 100.
You will have a sweet combo (you already do) for a bagger. Plenty of low end tq where you need it.
__________________
"Sh!t doesn't stink unless you poke it"
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Deut. 23:12-13
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11-13-2008, 10:18 PM
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#29 (permalink)
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FNG :)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: california
Posts: 2
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Yank the cam?
Thanks for the response guys,
Yeah, I already planned on replacing the pistons. Didn't know you have to switch the crank on a 96" bump.
I'll probably stick with the 95" bore then. Still planning on going at least 9.5:1 comp. I hope that starting from the current HP and TQ numbers I'll end up in the mid nineties with a head job. Just didn't know if the 26G cams could handle the compression.
any other tricks I didn't think of?
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11-14-2008, 03:14 AM
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#30 (permalink)
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Lifetime Premium
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 298
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AMS has a 96" jugs instead of 95"
You can get 96" jugs for the Twincam 88 from AMS. They make them instead of 95" jugs. Uses the stock crank. It is what I have. Give them a call and they can answer your compression questions. (There link is in my sig.)
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