Ultima frame chop build

[ramcr913]

Picked up an Ultima 250-series 38 degree single-downtube softail frame, and started collecting parts.

Frame is mocked up at 6 1/8" high, (same as my HD softail and a softail bobber I have). Yes I could lower it but I like my suspension at stock height, with some clearance.) Frame is level in the mockup, that is the tranny mounting plate is level relative to the floor.

Added an Ultima 6 speed tranny:

Its coming along slowly, I am in no real hurry. I ordered an inverted front end from Jeri's Springer, as soon as it comes in I will get it installed, take a pic or two and update progress on the mockup.
Thanks for looking.

[ramcr913]

Well I have made a little progress since August. I used a cheap Harbor Freight bender to make the rear hanger bracket for the fuel tank from a piece of flat bar:

Front brackets are pieces of angle I diced off a long piece. Located the brackets and welded them to them to the frame (BTW- I AIN’T NO WELDER!!! So please don’t bust me up too bad over the bad-lookin welds. I tested them with a BFH, they ain’t pretty but they’re holding):

Used 5/16" HD shock mounts on the tank:

Underside view of the tank mounted on the frame:

In the next pictures, I have the tank installed, a set of Chubby T-bars on, and a front end mocked up. The front end is an inverted springer, built by Jeri (Jeri’s Springer in Clearwater, Fl.):



Oh, for you sharp-eyed springer guys- yes the rockers are upside down. Long story, they have since been replaced with a different set with the correct angle that levels the chassis and are now positioned correctly. I have an engine ordered; due in tomorrow. When I get it mocked in I will integrate the driveline and size it for a rear belt. I will post some more updates later.

[grndpndr]

Thats looking good!...
Can you post up a closer pick of the lower front fork? I have a set of prints for an inverted front springer that I was considering on my next build.

I had to make alot of the parts for my last build too. Its well worth the effort tho.
I had mine on the lift for 5 years gettin it the way I wanted it. Now I'm ready to start another one!

keep on keepin us posted!

edited to say:
I went with a belt final drive on my last build, I'm thinkin that the next one will be a chain.
I would like to find a redneck engineering curved bobber frame for a starting point.

[ramcr913]

grndpndr- here's pic of the inverted springer lower end:

That is a DNA brake assembly. Here is a shot showing the rocker spacing. Note the 2 threaded bungs on the right fork. The lower one is for the brake anchor arm. The upper one is a 10mm brake line, stashed inside the tube. And yeah, this one is going to be belt driven as well.

This is a hi-lift, I added a couple of 3/4" pipes to make a fork lift to install the engine.

Worked pretty well, I rolled the chassis to the engine on a bike jack. Took only a few minutes, and the engine never touched the frame until I lowered it down on the frame mounts.

[Rickstar321]

Looking good! I bought my custom built already finished... makes me envious of you guys building your own!

... but I still love my bike :-D... and won't ever sell it... I may upgrade it... but never sell it!

[John916]

Ramcr913, I am looking at that same frame, currently I have the 200 Series Wide Softail® style frame with radius fender struts, 38˚ rake, 8” stretch downtubes, 26” backbone but I am looking at going to the 250 series. Just curious, you are running a LSD transmission on there, and wondering if you have set the belt up yet to see what type of clearance you have on the rear wheel? I currently have an 111" S&S and 3.35 open primary, just wondering how big of an offset you have to run to get the proper clearance?

[ramcr913]

John
Yep, its a LSD transmission (3rd picture down from the start of this thread). No I haven't set up the rear belt yet although I will probably be doing that in the next couple of weeks. The 250 series frame requires a 1 1/4" motor-to-primary offset; the frame and swingarm *should* be ready to accept the driveline...
I am getting the primary drive lined up this weekend, as soon as I bolt the transmission down I will put a pulley on the wheel and see where we're at. Right now the wheel CL is inline with the frame CL, and the transmission is pretty close to where it needs to be. Hard to tell in the pic but just eyeing it up... looks like it is going to line up ok.

Guess I will find out soon though.

[John916]

Only one way to find out. My current set up was the 200 with an S@S 111", LSD transmission and 3.35 open primary. My rear drive belt always shaved about 1/8th of an inch off new tires. I knew something wasn't quite lined up right. I'm also considering the ultima 6speed with kicker and swapping out the pawl with a baker shifter pawl. Have read that it helps with the overall shifting of that ultima..

[Road King Cole]

Originally Posted by ramcr913

... started collecting parts.

So what engine did you just happen to collect that you dropped in there?

btw, very nice looking build you got going there and and excellent thread!

Thanks!!!!!

rkc

[John916]

Here is my original setup. Ultima 200 frame, 8" up 26" backbone, +10" forks... I liked it, but want something a little wider in the rear and to be honest, got sick of the paint. Time to overhaul it. Rode good though, took it from Nor-Cal to Sturgis and rode hard every day.. Yes that is a Corbin Gentry two up seat..what can I say the lady likes to ride with me.

[ramcr913]

Rickstar- good lookin bike you picked up. Nice stance, can't go wrong with evo-pattern motors, and I actually like the purple.

John- If you decide to go with an Ultima 250 frame, let me know. I have most of the offsets figured out now and will be able to help you out with the motor-to-primary spacer, motor pulley spacer, the rear axle spacers and location, and the rotor and pulley spacers if required. And yeah, on that 200 frame- if you have belts rubbing tires you have an alignment problem for sure. That frame should clear a 1 1/2" belt. Remember that a chain is an inch wide, so a 1 1/8" belt should clear easy. Regarding the Ultima 6-speed, I have never ran one but a few of my pards have been running them for a while with no shifting problems. I wouldn't plan for that Baker pawl assembly. Wait and see if you have an issue first.

Road King- the engine is a Ultima 120. Never tried on e before, we'll see if it works out. Glad you're enjoying the thread, I will try to keep it current. I should make a little progress this weekend- I need to get the drive train mocked up, add a tab for the seat, and come up with a regulator mount. No place for one on the single downtube, I may need to fab something up. Rear fender needs the mounting holes finalized too...I still have a ways to go before breaking everything down for paint prep.

[John916]

Careful what you offer! Before you know it I'll be asking for blueprints and schematics! Actually since I will be ordering that frame in about 2 weeks, I am sure I will take you up on that offer.

And yes, I ran a 1.5" rear drive belt and I know it was out of alignment. Part of my reason to rebuild it, at least that is my excuse to get a new frame, wider rear tire, new wheels and a new paint job...

Hard to tell in the picture, but what primary are you running? Like I mentioned I am running the Ultima open primary 3.35, curious how the spacer works on that thing.

[ramcr913]

Well the motor and tranny didn’t want to line up when I started mocking up the driveline. When I set the motor and transmission in place I never tightened down the mounting bolts, just snugged them up so I could line them up with the motor plate (or inner primary if running a closed primary drive). Then I noticed that the motor rocked a bit on the rear mount- here’s the problem. Look close at the weld that holds the rear motor mount to the seat post. The weld kind of spills over on the motor mount flat:

So I had to pull the engine. Here’s a shot of the hi-lift with the motor lift-arms in place:

And here is a picture of the chassis on a lift, you can see how the motor lift and rolling jack under the chassis work to make engine removal/installation a easy one-man operation:

I will now grind that weld down a bit, reinstall the engine and see where things are at.

[gretsch58]

That should be a easy fix. nice work overall.

[ramcr913]

John916- I have an Ultima 3.35" street drive. I was installing the motor plate when I first realized I had an alignment issue. Yeah I am keeping a parts list so the spacer info won't be a problem.