changing the transmission pulley

[slowpokescotty]

Im asking for any advice or comments that may help me do this seemingly simple job.

I am removing the 29 toot transmission pulley and replacing it with a 26 tooth pulley. i have never worked on a bike that didnt have a chain and sprocket so im taking it with great caution. The pulley is held on by a huge nut. Fortunately i have a set of sockets that will fit . Should i just put the transmission in gear and loosen the nut.
Im being over cautious becaUSE THE PULLEYS COST ALMOST 150 DOLLARS. SPROCKETS ONLY COST ABOUT 35 DOLLARS.


oops caps sorry.

[HDMD88]

Originally Posted by slowpokescotty

Im asking for any advice or comments that may help me do this seemingly simple job.

I am removing the 29 toot transmission pulley and replacing it with a 26 tooth pulley. i have never worked on a bike that didnt have a chain and sprocket so im taking it with great caution. The pulley is held on by a huge nut. Fortunately i have a set of sockets that will fit . Should i just put the transmission in gear and loosen the nut.
Im being over cautious becaUSE THE PULLEYS COST ALMOST 150 DOLLARS. SPROCKETS ONLY COST ABOUT 35 DOLLARS.


oops caps sorry.

Just leave it in neutral and rattle gun it off....it should be left handed thread. If you don't have a rattle gun have someone apply the brake.

[slowpokescotty]

yes have both thanks

[slowpokescotty]

well the pulley is on. My electric impact barely did the trick but its on. There seems to be a plastic grease retainer that goes into the center of the transmission shaft. Things dont look right to me. The darn shop manuac doesnt cover this item. In the center of the shaft ares there is a roller bearing and about 1/8 in of it is exposed and I would think think the entire bearing should be mating with the ??? inner shaft if thats what it is.


Advice or comments please. i haven taken the bike down the road yet. The Plastic seal fell out after i took the pulley off so i dont really know what the bearing position was at start.

[HDMD88]

Originally Posted by slowpokescotty

well the pulley is on. My electric impact barely did the trick but its on. There seems to be a plastic grease retainer that goes into the center of the transmission shaft. Things dont look right to me. The darn shop manuac doesnt cover this item. In the center of the shaft ares there is a roller bearing and about 1/8 in of it is exposed and I would think think the entire bearing should be mating with the ??? inner shaft if thats what it is.


Advice or comments please. i haven taken the bike down the road yet. The Plastic seal fell out after i took the pulley off so i dont really know what the bearing position was at start.

The main drive gear is the same on your bike as in the Big Twin 5 speed, the plastic plug is just that a plug to keep oil in and dirt out. There is two roller berings in the main drive to support the mainshaft of the big twin as it goes all the way through....the Sporty shaft is much shorter and does not need that much support.

[slowpokescotty]

whew thanks a million. Your check for 500 thousand is in the mail. Next im thinking of doing some minor carb work. i dont want to go inside the engine.

[slowpokescotty]

sprockes on works well. Bike runs about 300 rpm higher and is on cams sooner. Much smoother take off. Noticable increase in peppyness through all gears and ranges.
Reverse pattern shift mechanism works well. I am thinking of carb mods but what for??? the bike performs nicely now and is extremely reliable.

[slowpokescotty]

gas mileage went up too. I get 50 51 mpg most of the time. I used to average 47 48 and 49mpg before. no drag racing though.
reverse shift patern is satisfactory now. The 1 1/2 inch lowering worked well. all i need to do is learn how to tweak te front forks. It was hoppin through corners when i tried running with a hooligan bunch. Lots of fun though.

well for now any way.

[slowpokescotty]

The smaller transmission sprocket made the M2 a lot quicker from a dead stop. I was drag racing my buddy with his 1150 suzuki and i was a bit ahead of him in first. i know from riding moded sportsters in the 60s that these HD things dont really start to go untill you get into 3rd gear. I was waiting to shock the stuff out of my buddy and then i got my education. The rev limiter kicked in . Im used to in line 4s.

Well, i just ordered a shift minder light that goes on at 5500 rpm.

[aeholton]

I don't believe your gas mileage went up. I believe the increase you are seeing is due to the speedo/odo being inacurate due to your pulley change. I would like to bet that when your speedo gives an indicated speed of 60mph, you are actually doing more like 50mph.

Anyway, how is it for pulling the front wheel up? Bet it would be alot of fun w/ a smaller front sprocket/pulley around town. However, when I'm on the highway, I find myself wishing for a larger front pulley or a 6th gear.

[Bigmatt1]

The tubers have the speedo driven off the front wheel. There is no correction needed.

If the gearing gets the bike up on the cam a little, the mileage can go up. I have seen this in my Buell and FrankenKing.

---
Slowpoke - Lengthen the swingarm by 6" and you will have a true monster on your hands.

I have a Buell S1 with Stage II Hammer Heads (Thunderstorms, ported to 1.9s), 10.5 comp pistons, 44mm CV and .536 SE cams. With the longer SA, the bike is amazing at the track (dragstrip). You can't get the front wheel off the ground and the rear will plant with just a little tire spin with ease. Very easy to ride! I also use it on the street.

[aeholton]

My 2001 M2 has the speedo sensor in the transmission. As a matter of fact, it failed 4 times before I bought the Buell re-wire kit. What year is your bike?

[slowpokescotty]

my 97 m2 has the drive on the front wheel. I just ordered a shift minder light so i dont get embarrased by the rev limiter again. This is just a fill in till my suzuki engine comes back from the builder. the problem is that i have fallen in love with this thing.
I have a reversed tube front end and some who knows what mono on the line. right now i wwant to install the shift light and a set of mini saddle bags i gott that are suposed to fit a later model. Reall not much for the m2. I have to lear to power shift it. I havent had a sporty motor since the 60s.

sorry about the wheelies. My game is not to do them. it does come up when i wack it in first and when i power shift to second though. Ill get that under controll. I need to practice a bit.

The shift light pill is for 5K to 5800 range. a bit broad i would say. i hope it lights up at a little over 5K
the m2 is cammed for the lower rpm power.

[slowpokescotty]

Originally Posted by aeholton

My 2001 M2 has the speedo sensor in the transmission. As a matter of fact, it failed 4 times before I bought the Buell re-wire kit. What year is your bike?

Btw, i used the entire shift mechanism off a 2001 m2 to replace the stock wiggler on mine and it was easy to reverse the shift patteren with that mechanism also.
I have a 1980 kz1300 that satisfys my need for higher speeds quite well.

[slowpokescotty]

Originally Posted by Bigmatt1

The tubers have the speedo driven off the front wheel. There is no correction needed.

If the gearing gets the bike up on the cam a little, the mileage can go up. I have seen this in my Buell and FrankenKing.

---
Slowpoke - Lengthen the swingarm by 6" and you will have a true monster on your hands.

I have a Buell S1 with Stage II Hammer Heads (Thunderstorms, ported to 1.9s), 10.5 comp pistons, 44mm CV and .536 SE cams. With the longer SA, the bike is amazing at the track (dragstrip). You can't get the front wheel off the ground and the rear will plant with just a little tire spin with ease. Very easy to ride! I also use it on the street.

i want to play with the bike a bit but dont want to open the engine on this one. iis too reliable nd i need one that i can depend on besides my 200cc honda lol.
My ms has a v&h carbon fiber muffler and a sportster oval shaped air flter with a K&N filter in it. Whay would you fellas think of going to a slightly larger carb??
or what