» Site Navigation |
|
»
»
»
» Motorcycle Forums
|
|
» Buyers Guide |
|
|
|
» Links |
|
|
|
 |
09-04-2007, 06:21 AM
|
#1 (permalink)
|
|
Seasoned Rider
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: PA
Posts: 75
|
changing front fork oil on a Buell 2005???
my brother has a 2005 Buell City (hope I have the name right), he wants to change the front fork oil. He bought the service manual to help with changing the fork oil but it is very confusing. The manual tells you how to take the entire assembly apart but not simple directions on how to just change the oil. I have changed oil on my FLTR and a road king but the Buell is a different animal. Any help would be appreciated.
|
|
|
|
Sponsored Links
|
Advertisement
|
|
|
09-04-2007, 08:25 AM
|
#2 (permalink)
|
|
Pebble Cruncher
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Barksdale AFB, LA
Posts: 1,092
|
there is no bottom drain like on an HD, so to get the oil out, you have to dissassemble the entire assembly, and physicly turn the tube upside down to drain the oil.
That reminds me, I need to do that to my Blast...
__________________
YMMV, YGWYPF, TANSTAAFL, WITMM?
Your Milage May Vary, You Get What You Pay For, There Aint No Such Thing As A Free Lunch, Who Is That Masked Man?
I'm not yet at the exact level of boredom required to taste the cat.
'04 TC103 FXD
SE 4.375" Stroker Crank
SE 3.875" Flat top Pistons
SE 211 cams
Modified/Revalved Chevy Lifters
SE A/C
SE 2 Slip-Ons
Big City Thunder TMSEII Baffles
SE 6200 RPM Ignition module
SE Clutch spring
White Bros E-Z clutch release
LMR2 oil pressure spring
|
|
|
|
|
09-05-2007, 11:53 AM
|
#3 (permalink)
|
|
Thread Ender
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Troy Ohio
Posts: 1,814
|
Would there be any way to suck it out?
__________________
2007 Street Glide
Hobanized Crank, Axtell 117" cylinders, CP flat tops, 10.6:1 CR, Woods TW8, R&R cast heads, R&R roller rockers, HPI 51mm T/B, 4.9 g/s SE injectors, D&D Fat Cat 2into1 QB, Rivera Pro Clutch, Tuned with a TSII+, Never been dynoed
George W. Bush - lowered taxes and likes killing terrorists - my kinda guy
Obama - raised taxes and likes reading terrorists their rights -  
|
|
|
|
|
09-05-2007, 01:12 PM
|
#4 (permalink)
|
|
Pebble Cruncher
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Barksdale AFB, LA
Posts: 1,092
|
You could try...you would need a 3 foot long 1/4" hose and a hand vacume pump...like bleeding brakes or something
__________________
YMMV, YGWYPF, TANSTAAFL, WITMM?
Your Milage May Vary, You Get What You Pay For, There Aint No Such Thing As A Free Lunch, Who Is That Masked Man?
I'm not yet at the exact level of boredom required to taste the cat.
'04 TC103 FXD
SE 4.375" Stroker Crank
SE 3.875" Flat top Pistons
SE 211 cams
Modified/Revalved Chevy Lifters
SE A/C
SE 2 Slip-Ons
Big City Thunder TMSEII Baffles
SE 6200 RPM Ignition module
SE Clutch spring
White Bros E-Z clutch release
LMR2 oil pressure spring
|
|
|
|
|
09-28-2007, 09:15 PM
|
#5 (permalink)
|
|
Seasoned Rider
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 36
|
its not as hard as it sounds.
The hard part is getting the front wheel off, you need to disassemble the brake caliper to get the wheel off, then loosen the top cap on the forks, then remove the forks.
Then carefully remove the fork caps, remember, there will be pressure from the springs!
Once you've got the cap off, just hold them upside down over a bucket while holding the spring in, and stroke the forks a few times to get all the oil out.
when you've got all the oil out, hold them straight up and down, and now you can add your fresh oil, remember to stroke the forks a few times to get the oil throughout the system, put the caps back on, and then re-install everything back on the bike.
|
|
|
|
|
| Thread Tools |
|
|
| Display Modes |
 Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
