G once again thank you for bailing me out, and advice once again.
Here is todays "tail":
Man I went out this am, 6:10, hit the starter button, it raced, I killed it, grab the PREMIUM ONLY Turbo car and go to work.
Stew on it all day and start going over what has been suggested to me by BC. Cable bind, nope one hel$ of a smooth stroke, nice routing and NOT on my jugs or rocker box (although BC says it is OK for them to do that). After Market throttle Grip, nope just in there to put the DiamonBack cables on and all is smooth, clean (and yes the brake and clutch DiamondBack cables are on their way to me
)
Next was maybe dirty TPS, well scoffed a little on that but dirt on that blade or in that housing would be nasty, and while cleaning, check pivot points of TB and around TPS blade on the outside of TB.
What the heck at this point I am game for anything. FIRST thing I notice is I used the BC screws that are ground down on the top half of the threads to allow some TPS adjustment. BIG FUBAR on my part. Since I slotted the TPS holes then when I tightened down, and some times aggressively, I had distorted the brass furrows to a point, but more importantly, I may have had it vibrating around on those skinny style screws, or distorting the furrows, and then distorting the entire TPS, to a point.
On the cleaning the round area external on the TB, that the TPS sensor goes on, it was dirty as hell, also the pivot are was dirty, hey break cleaner and an old white T, and you see it. Internal pivots were dirty and the parts cleaner did a fine job. Then I took some Rod and Reel oil that applies with a needle, and oiled each pivot point and worked the blades a bunch. TPS I used a q-tip, then air.
So use my old screws and tighten it up and start from scratch.
Set TPS, IAC at 110 C for 35 steps, let it cool temp wise, back out and make each adjustment until it starts to the RED Zone on the temp and wait until it is 60 C or so to do each, I don't know after about four adjustments and they were progressive, in other words my IAC was going down but I was running too high on temp. It did set like a stone though and when it hit is stayed in the 35 from 90 to 110 C, and then it dropped only slightly. I ran it to the red zone on the last idle to see and watch it and it was flawless. I let it sit two or three minuets, hit the button and it fired right up, went maybe 1100 RPM, but set in after it went warm, and dead on 35 at 110 C. Go for a ride to heat it up and got the oil up to 200 and stopped, did a re start and fell right in. Ride it a bit more bring it home and do another restart with a minuet or two idle, for the logs.
Well it held, and it seems to be OK, but been here before
I did load the BC 95 TCFI file and the ONLY thing I change was 1375 for speed, unchecked the Auto Nominal IAC and Barometric boxes, checked the Low Fuel light box, put 30 in the IAC number, and that was it!
Now I did have the bike hotter last night, 220 or so on oil. Not a lot of faith yet and will start it one more time before 9:00 or so, to see what is going on, and keep peace with the neighbors.
GRock I have all of your advice printed so as (IF) this setting holds, I will apply some of the things you have taught me as the map builds. One thing I did notice as IAC pulls into place, your IDLE smooths and you have a very DISTINCT pattern to the RPM, as I pulled closer to the magic number 35 or so, the RPM would bounce 969, 1000, 969, 1000 and staying on 1000 more then 969, I COULD not light 1000 continuous.
STB Thank you for your help and suggestions. Not sure on that advance and me with the 10.5 and the 6HG and domed pistons, but if I ever get that far
, I will keep it in mind, I basically have always run the stock map and smoothed it a bit.
You know I thought this would be a breeze since I had the learning curve down on on the TCFI I, and at least understood the setup. I know others of us have had this on and off again IAC/TPS and it is a pain. I fought it for months on the TCFI I and stock TB, but once it set it set, never had to worry about it again. I would never go back because from the two initial setups I have done it seems you will eventually get it in, so I would not give up.
We all cant be stupid, can we?
I know I will continue to work toward it because it REALLY woke my bike up in the low end. And once I can stop worry about if it will start without racing, I want to see how close I can get the AFR on each cylinder.
