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Well disconnected all cables and tried to set it and after a lot of attempts it set. However I could not replicate it for another 3 hours, it finally set and stayed.

I used a new cable set the HD Diamond back or some shiz, nice cables but 149 less 10%. The are 1.5 inches longer. On a RG the length is 39.5 and these are 41 inches While I think I needed new and longer cables although not the issue, it hurt buying chrome or whatever these are. I am not big into it but now I have to buy the clutch cable to match as it will drive me nuts. I had to get the Dremel and the jewelers rouge and I polished the line where the butterflies close at, I think with thermal expansion they were dragging but maybe not, figured it would not hurt and as it was buffing wheels and rouge just a polish after that is when I got it set. On the cables I wanted another of those brackets with the blind pop rivet but two dealers had the rivet but not the hanger. I just moved it back to where it helped start the curve that these cables must hit, then I put my small crows foot through it and bent it toward the front and down to even get it pointed further that way. It still is tight and a pretty sharp bend but they are off my jugs now and seated nicely in the TB stops. Any way my last 6 hours and what I found so far. Did have a bad hot restart where it raced but pulled over, shut it down let it sit a minuet or three and it fired up in a set state. From the log I am lean for sure. Also noticed the TPS is off a tinch now, but want to do a cold to hot live view tomorrow and see if it runs and sets to 35 IAC on its own.

Having a "learning experience" for sure.


Above I am bring on line from SSTAN and I on some PM's. I am confident this is now a tuning/software edit

I am EXACTLY WHERE YOU ARE after all that

I have to say I abused my cables in the past on various projects so the new cables and repositioning was no big deal.

Now I am dead on TPS and IAC from cold start to 100 C and BOTH are DEAD NUTS ON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I am experiencing that I get a nice start, it fires, the compression releases snap in and life is grand . BUT I am getting where it will chug and start then start to slowly race to 1300 RPM instead of bouncing 969-1034 RPM on a "good"start. If I shut it down and restart I will get a good start. I have put "ones" in the BLM Tables up to 1250 RPM at 0% TPS. That did not help the starting issue.

Tonight I have richened the AFR Table in the O and 2% TPS to 12.8 and I have added 10% to my ENTIRE Alpha-N Table, but have not ridden it on this.

Seams to be a 2-D IAC Table but I am not sure where to start. Maybe increase the ET Based IAC Start Adder Table?

Again same thing if I slightly open the Throttle it goes fine.

Also I USED the Aggressive Start Adder Table also with the stock TB.

And I It is really starting to be ANNOYING

On you final question I was wondering that also. Think I will move it 15-20 points up, and see if that helps.

Originally Posted by sstan

I'm looking for some ideas on a problem with starting. About a week ago I got my ECU back and installed a gerolamy dual runner RB at the same time. My IAC steps are about 32 when doing live view (rechecked many times). Today I saw it drop to 25 in the log file though. It recovered when the bike was stopped but not shut off. TPS is at 40.

Anyway starting is getting to be a real pain, more cold starts than when warmed up. If I crack the throttle a little while cranking it fires which leads me to the IAC start adder tables. Before converting to the IID my time based table was what DTT calls the aggressive one. The ET start adder numbers before conversion were lower than now for cold temps. My converted start tables are the same as whats in the stock maps from DTT.

I've been tuning so far with the TCFI_Setup95_Gerolamy.dat and with a few applied BLM's the bike has never run better. It's just getting it started that's problematic. Before the upgrade it would start quick and idled perfectly.

I tried the start optimizing tests as outlined in the IID idle tuning tech note and the IAC falls normally and the idle is flat at 1000 rps. Still it acts like not enough air while cranking. I'm tempted to try increasing the time based start adder numbers to more like what I had before the conversion. Any thoughts?