I am surprised you had that issue for so long. I think it is a known quirk.
One of the first things I experienced was engine rpm drop when the bike got warm 120 C. I was told to not allow BLM changes in 0% and 2% TPS, and to really run fat in the idle RPM range. Also what you put in the cell is not necessarily what is going to show up in the log file. In other words you may have to put 12.7 in your AFR at idle to get 13.2 or whatever.
Also the Heat Based RPM table can be your friend.
Seems odd. Is the heat baking the TB and screwing with the TPS Sensor? You free air calibrated? Did not run any Octane booster? TPS and IAC were right? Have you gotten into the habit of working the throttle grip before each start to ensure butterfly/TPS is 0 set?
What type of motor work?
I have forged pistons so even in the summer they need a good while to get warm and expand. I have always warmed forged pistons longer then cast as I was taught that way. Anyway point is the TCFI NEEDS to warm up, if you fire it up, and ride off you are in for some evil for awhile. It takes like 180 sec to go warm off the O2's. Not a biggie to me as I have to wait anyway.
STB glad to hear you are squared away now. That is why we need to talk and share this stuff.
Sorry to all else, but there is nothing controlling EFI like a IID. Anything else is just a mindfuc for the ECU.
I did not always feel this way and still am not in love with Customer Support, but others are getting some good information and building a rapport with Chris.
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Originally Posted by STB
Everything you mention above I lived with for months with the single O2 sensor set up. I had three bikes: a morning bike, a noon bike and an evening bike: the tuning changed three times a day on the same day on the same bike. Seems like 11 A.M. would do the trick as well as 8 P.M.. So, I named my bike "Maybe - Maybe Not." Would it start, would it idle, what time of day was it? I wish I could tell you in 20 words or less how "it got fixed." All I can say is be aggressive with the alpha N at the top horizontal row, save each change and when you get close, take a break and go for a putt. Then in a day or two refine it until you get closer and closer.
Finally, if you are worried about heat issues if you have to lean your bike out, look hard at the Advance timing since if it is too low, you get more heat generated. I easily took 15C degees out of my ET with better advance. Since my engine is not a race engine which will be rebuilt after 100 runs or so, I don't take the advance to the rattle point and back it off. Close is good enough for me: good fuel consumption numbers, no decel popping, 115 to 120degee C ET, no knock and decent performance tells me it is close to spot on for an enthusiast and reliable riding. I just hope it stays that way......... .
Seabrook
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