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[ClassicRider]

Calin....
The HD bearing being used there is a Koyo 5207 CD3 FG (black shiny covering is "polyamite" which is a type of phenolic covering.) It's a Double Row Angular Contact Ball Bearing running on a 24 degree axis. It is HD# 37906-90. Cost is $61.99 retail but from a 20% discount HD Dealer you will pay approximately $49.00 + shipping.

I would (personally), and do definitely agree with your comment about replacing the bearing.....and as Boogerbe suggests this bearing may be the culpret and still may have some participation in what you are hearing....

It seems there is very little information about what many are doing in regards to the pressing out and into the "radial" angular bearing. For your information this bearing is not an axial (thrust) bearing, thus it doesn't take much to "side load" to ruin the bearing. Since you may be deciding to press out your "current" stock clutch hub HD# 37550-98 from your "current" clutch basket it does present a potential problem to the bearing. Anytime one presses the bearing into the clutch hub there is no problem as you introduce the pressure onto the outer race. When you press the clutch hub into the bearing, you support the inner race and press the clutch hub. After that, to remove the clutch "hub", there is no way to support the inner race and you can't get to the retaining ring for the outer race to remove it. Your only option is to press the clutch "hub" out of the bearing which puts significant side load on the balls and races and MAY cause flat spots depending on the amount of pressure needed. Only as a last resort would I ever consider reusing the bearing.....thus it seems a logical thing to do which sounds extreme perhaps is to "potentially" replace the bearing....So since I have been dealing recently with the "modification" of going from the 3.15 gearing also to the 3.37 gearing in my 2002 RKC, I have been reviewing the actual bearing HD is using....Be aware that there are many choices for different bearings....HD chose to use, obviously cooling the bearing via the primary fluid being "slushed" on to it as it is an "open faced" or "unsealed" bearing.... The Koyo 5207 bearing is considered a "PHENOLIC" bearing which basically identifies that the bearing has a sheet made from a resin and is a hard dense material which covers th e bearings in part....if you have one of the 'bearings' in front of you, you will see a "black" shiny surface material in the center that wraps the bearing....this material is referred to as "polyamite". I WILL say that obviously it hasn't been reported that I am familar with that anyone has had a "particular" problem with HD's# 37906-90 bearing which is once again for emphasis the KOYO 5207 CD3 FG Double Row Angular Contact Ball Bearing, of which the Bore Diameter is 35 milmeters, Outside Diameter 72 milmeters, and the Overall Width 27 milmeters. After doing all of the research about different bearings to use, I have come to the conclusion to simply continue on the path with HD using the HD# 37906-90 Koyo 5207 CDE FG bearing.

So....deep breath what does all of this mean, when it comes to the bearing...it means you must reach a conclusion as to whether or not you feel it warrants changing out your bearing......some will say no, some will say definitely.......all I wanted to do was inform you of your choices and what you might consider....

Regardless of the path that you choose, be sure to PROPERLY adjust the primary chain as over tightening will cause shortened bearing life.

Personally I do agree as mentioned above, that replacing the bearing would be a smart choice. Also you might give some credence to actually purchasing a second HD# 37550-98 clutch hub (retail price $133.00 -20% discount from a 20% Discount HD Dealer aprx $108.00) and because you have the potential of a "problem" with your current HD bearing purchasing even a second HD# 37906-90 bearing which would allow you to do all of this pressing out of the bearing and pressing on of the bearing and making two quick change clutch basket assemblies so if you decide to jump back to the 3.15 gearing your not going through the eventual bearing replacement at that time....the only thing required is moving the "guts" of the clutch assembly into the clutch hub, back and forth if you so choose without dealing with the issues of the bearing in the future....of course in this example you have spent $160.00 and may never go back to your 3.15 gearing and have that "capital" simply sitting on your shelf collecting dust....I chose to purchase a new bearing and a new clutch hub and not "disturb" my stock clutch assembly by pressing out the stock "clutch hub" out of the bearing...if I WERE to ever to choose to go back to the 3.15 gearing I can do so easily without any pressing in or out and at that point I have saved some time and have the freedom of going back and forth with no continual replacement of the bearing....lol it makes sense to me...

Regards,

"ClassicRider"